The Complete Guide to Chemical and Mechanical Tree Sap Removal

Perform a thorough two-bucket wash using a high-pH 'strip' soap to remove all surface dirt, dust, and existing waxes. This ensures that your sap removal tools are working directly on the resin, not pushing surface grit into the paint. Pay specific attention to gaps between panels where sap often hides.

NEVER attempt sap removal on a hot panel. Move the vehicle into a garage or under a professional gazebo. If the panel is above 30°C, the solvents will flash (evaporate) too quickly to work, and the paint will be in a softened state, making it highly susceptible to scratching.

Run your hand (inside a plastic sandwich bag for sensitivity) over the clean paint to identify every sap deposit. Mark the areas mentally or use low-tack painter's tape nearby. Differentiate between 'fresh' sticky sap and 'fossilised' hard sap, as they require different dwell times.

If using 100% IPA, dilute it to a 70% solution with distilled water for a better balance of solvency and dwell time. Knead your clay bar into a flat disc and ensure your microfibre towels are free of any debris or previous product residue.

Apply a small amount of Isopropyl Alcohol or Tar Remover to a clean microfibre cloth or a cotton pad. Press the saturated pad directly onto the sap deposit and hold it there for 60-90 seconds. This 'soak' period allows the solvent to penetrate the hardened outer shell of the resin.

Using light finger pressure, gently rub the area in a circular motion with the saturated cloth. You should see the sap begin to liquefy and smear. If it resists, do not increase pressure; instead, re-apply the solvent and wait another minute.

As the sap softens, use a clean section of the microfibre to 'scoop' the bulk of the residue away from the paint. Always flip the towel to a clean side to avoid re-depositing the sticky resin elsewhere on the panel.

For sap that has 'domed' and hardened into a crystal, use a plastic razor blade. Hold the blade at a 45-degree angle and, with plenty of lubricant or solvent, very gently shave the top of the mound. Stop once you are within a millimetre of the paint surface.

Once the bulk of the sap is chemically removed, a 'ghost' or ring of residue often remains. Generously spray the area with your dedicated clay lubricant. The surface must be dripping wet to ensure the clay bar glides without friction.

Glide the clay bar over the lubricated area using zero downward pressure. Use short, rapid linear strokes (not circles). You will hear a 'gritty' sound initially; continue until the clay moves silently and smoothly across the surface.

After every 20cm x 20cm area, inspect the face of the clay bar. If you see brown or yellow sap residue, fold the clay over to expose a fresh, clean surface. This prevents the abrasive sap particles from scratching the next section of paint.

After the sap is removed, wipe the area with a damp microfibre towel or a quick detailer spray. This removes any lingering solvent residue which, if left to dry in the sun, could cause minor staining or 'solvent pop' in the clear coat.

Dry the panel and inspect it using a high-lumen torch or under direct sunlight. Check for any etching (a dull ring where the sap sat). If the surface feels smooth but looks dull, you may need a light finishing polish to restore clarity.

Perform a final wipe-down of the entire treated panel with a 20% IPA solution to ensure all lubricants and oils are gone. This prepares the surface for the application of a protective sealant or wax.