What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, anyone can run a vacuum over the floor mats, but that's not what we're doing here. This is about deep cleaning and protecting your interior against the 40 degree heat, coastal salt, and that finer-than-flour outback dust that gets into everything. I'm going to walk you through the gear I use in my own shop and the techniques that'll keep your dash from cracking and your leather from looking like an old boot.
Why Interior Detailing Matters in February
The Detailer's Kit Bag
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Setting the Scene
Get it out of the sun
Don't even try this if the car is sitting in the sun. The chemicals will flash off (dry) way too fast and leave streaks. Find a shed or wait until the arvo when things cool down.
Clear the junk
Chuck all the old hungry jacks bags and servo receipts in the bin. Empty the glovebox and the centre console, you can't clean what you can't see.
Blow it out
Before you touch a vacuum, use your air blower or compressed air to blow out the dust from the vents, seat tracks, and buttons. This stops you from just sucking up surface dust for an hour.
The Deep Clean Process
The First Pass Vacuum
Do a thorough vacuum of the floors and seats. I like to use a stiff brush to agitate the carpet fibres while I'm vacuuming. It's the only way to get those stubborn sand grains out if you've been at the beach.
Ceiling and Pillars
Start from the top. Lightly mist a microfibre with APC and wipe the headliner. Be gentle! I learned the hard way on an old Holden that if you get the headliner too wet, the glue fails and it'll sag by the end of the week.
The Dash and Console
Spray your APC onto the brush, not the dash. This prevents 'overspray' from getting on the inside of the windscreen. Work the brush into the grain of the plastic to lift the sweat and oils.
Door Cards and Scuff Plates
These take a beating from work boots. Use a slightly stronger dilution here. If you've got those white scuff marks, a magic eraser works, but be careful, they're abrasive and can ruin the texture if you're too aggressive.
Deep Leather Clean
If you've got leather, use a dedicated cleaner. I've found that leather often looks 'shiny' when it's dirty. A proper clean should leave it with a nice matte finish. Work in circles and wipe away the foam immediately.
The 'Toothbrush' Work
Get into the window switches and steering wheel seams with a soft brush. This is where the 'pro' look comes from. Most people miss the gunk that builds up on the indicator stalks.
Steam the Cup Holders
If you've got dried iced coffee or energy drink spills, steam is your best mate. It melts the sugar in seconds. Wipe it out with a clean cloth. No dramas.
Glass Cleaning
Use two towels for the glass. One to apply the cleaner and scrub, and a fresh, dry one to buff it clear. If you use the same towel, you'll just leave streaks that'll blind you when the sun hits the 'screen tomorrow morning.
UV Protection Application
This is the most important step for an Aussie summer. Apply a non-greasy UV protectant (like Aerospace 303) to all vinyl and plastic. It stops the sun from leaching the plasticisers out of your dash.
Final Vacuum and Floor Mats
One last quick suck-up to catch anything you knocked onto the floor during the cleaning process. Put your clean mats back in and you're golden.
My Secret for Red Dust
Watch Out
The 'Sunscreen' Problem
Keeping it Fresh
Common Questions
Can I use 'shiny' dressings on my dash?
How do I get the smell of damp out after a beach trip?
Is it worth getting a professional interior coating?
My steering wheel is peeling, can I fix it?
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