Taking Your Detailing to the Next Level: Pro Techniques for Australian Conditions

After a standard wash, spray an iron remover over the dry paint. Watch it turn purple. This is pulling out the rail dust and brake dust that’s embedded in the clear coat. Rinse it off thoroughly, don't let it dry in the sun, or you'll have a bad day.

If you've parked under a gum tree, you'll have sap. Use a dedicated tar and glue remover. Dab it on, let it dwell for a minute, and wipe gently. Don't scrub, or you'll mar the paint.

Use plenty of clay lubricant. Slide the clay bar over the paint until it glides smoothly. This removes the 'grit' you can feel with your fingertips. I like to do this while the car is still wet from the final rinse to save time.

Use a leaf blower or a dedicated car dryer. You want every drop of water out of the wing mirrors and badges. Nothing ruins a polish faster than a stray drip of water hitting your pad.

Tape off all rubber seals, unpainted plastics, and badge edges. It takes 20 minutes now but saves you two hours of scrubbing white residue later. Learned that the expensive way on a Range Rover once.

Never just dive in. Pick a small area on the bonnet. Start with the least aggressive combo (finishing polish and foam pad). If that doesn't clear the swirls, move up to a compound. You want to remove the least amount of clear coat possible.

Work in a 50cm x 50cm square. Apply 4-5 pea-sized drops to the pad. Spread it on speed 1, then crank it up to speed 4 or 5. Use slow, overlapping arm movements.

Let the machine do the work. Only use enough pressure to keep the pad flat. If the pad stops spinning, you're pressing too hard. Watch the rotation mark on your backing plate.

Use your IPA wipe and a fresh microfibre to remove the polish residue. Shine your LED light at an angle. If the swirls are gone, move to the next section. If not, go again.

Once the heavy defects are gone, switch to a soft foam pad and a fine polish. This 'jewels' the paint and brings out that insanely deep gloss. Honestly, this is the most satisfying part.

Wipe the entire car down twice with an IPA or panel prep. You need the paint absolutely 'naked' for the ceramic coating to bond. Any leftover oil will cause the coating to fail within weeks.

Apply the ceramic coating to the applicator suede. Work in small sections (30cm x 30cm). Apply in a cross-hatch pattern (up and down, then left and right).

Wait for the coating to 'flash' or bead up (usually 1-3 minutes depending on the humidity). In a humid Sydney arvo, it'll flash fast. In a dry Adelaide heat, you might have longer.

Use two towels. Towel 1 removes the bulk of the residue. Towel 2 buffs it to a clear, streak-free finish. Check with your light for 'high spots' (dark oily patches). If you leave them, they'll harden and you'll have to polish them off.

Don't forget the rest. Use a dedicated glass coating for the windscreen (makes rain fly off at 80km/h) and a high-temp coating for the wheel faces to stop brake dust sticking.