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Interior Cleaning beginner 7 min read

Restoring Faded Interior Trims and Center Consoles

Your car's interior cops more abuse than you realise—UV damage, spills, body oils, and the occasional fast food disaster. Here's how to fight back.

Is your interior looking a bit tired after a brutal Aussie summer? Learn how to bring back that deep black finish to your console and trims without that greasy, cheap-looking shine.

MT
Mick Thompson Senior Detailing Editor
| Updated: 5 March 2026
Restoring Faded Interior Trims and Center Consoles

Aussie Conditions

Australian UV is 15% stronger than Europe. Your dash and leather need proper UV protection, not just cleaning, especially if you park outside.
Quick Summary

Look, we’ve all been there. You jump into the car after it's been sitting in the sun all day and notice the plastic around the gear shifter is looking chalky and the door trims are turning a nasty shade of grey. Between the 40 degree heat and the constant UV blasting through the windscreen, our interiors take a massive beating. This guide is all about getting those plastics back to 'showroom' state using the right gear, rather than just slapping on some oily rubbish from the servo.

01

The Reality of Aussie Interiors

Right, so let's be honest. The Australian sun is basically a laser beam designed to destroy your car's interior. I've been detailing for over 15 years now, and I reckon about 80% of the cars I see have some form of UV damage on the console or door cards. It’s not just the heat, either. If you live near the coast, that salt air gets in and dries everything out, and if you're out west, that red dust acts like sandpaper on your plastics. I once had a customer bring in a 200 series LandCruiser that had been across the Simpson twice. The interior didn't even look like plastic anymore; it looked like sun-bleached bone. Bringing that back took some serious elbow grease, but it's totally doable if you've got the right approach. We're not just 'cleaning' here; we're deep-cleaning and then feeding the material to make sure it doesn't just crack and crumble in six months' time.
02

The Gear You'll Need

What You'll Need

0/9
Dedicated Interior Cleaner — Don't use dish soap. Get something like Bowden's Own Agent Orange or Meguiar's Interior Detailer.
Soft-Bristled Detailing Brushes — Essential for getting into the crumbs around the gear stick and buttons.
Microfibre Cloths — Get a pack of 5-10. You'll want clean ones for every stage.
Magic Eraser (Use with caution!) — Only for some stubborn scuffs on hard plastics. Never use on leather or piano black.
Non-Greasy Trim Protectant — I swear by 303 Aerospace Protectant or CarPro Perl (diluted 1:5).
Vacuum with a brush attachment — To get the loose grit out before you start scrubbing.
Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) mix — A 10-15% dilution to strip old, greasy silicone dressings.
Steam Cleaner (Optional) — If you've got one, it makes life heaps easier for cupholders.
Applicator Pads — Microfibre or foam ones for even spread of the protectant.
03

Setting the Stage

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Clear the Clutter

Empty out the center console, side pockets, and glovebox. You'd be surprised how much dust hides under your spare change and old servo receipts. Chuck the rubbish and put the important stuff in a Tupperware container.

02

The Deep Vac

Use the brush attachment on your vacuum. Be thorough around the gear lever gaiter and the seams of the plastic. If you leave grit there, you'll just scratch the plastic when you start wiping later.

03

Test Spot

Always, and I mean always, test your cleaner on a hidden spot. Some older Fords and Holdens have a 'soft-touch' coating that can peel if you use a cleaner that's too aggressive. (Found that out the hard way on a black Commodore back in 2010, absolute nightmare).

04

The Restoration Process

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Strip the Old Junk

If the previous owner used that cheap, oily spray from the supermarket, you need it off. Wipe down the hard plastics with your IPA mix. It'll look dull and 'dry' afterwards, but that's what we want, a clean canvas.

02

Agitate the Grime

Spray your interior cleaner onto your brush, not directly onto the dash (to avoid overspray on the glass). Work in small circles. You'll see the suds turn brown or grey as the dirt lifts.

03

The Cupholder Crisis

Cupholders are usually the grossest part. If there's dried coffee or soft drink, let the cleaner dwell for a minute. Use a damp microfibre wrapped around a screwdriver head (carefully!) to get into the tight corners.

04

Wipe and Inspect

Wipe away the dirty suds with a clean microfibre. If the plastic still looks patchy, go again. You want an even, mate finish before moving to the protection stage.

05

Tackling Scuffs

For those scuff marks on the lower door trims (from people kicking the door open), try a damp Magic Eraser. Use very light pressure. It’s basically very fine sandpaper, so don't go nuts or you'll sand away the grain of the plastic.

06

Clean the Screens

Use a fresh, dry microfibre for infotainment screens. If it's really fingerprinty, use a dedicated glass cleaner or a screen cleaner. Avoid anything with ammonia.

07

Apply the Protectant

Now the fun part. Put a few drops of your protectant (like 303) onto an applicator pad. Work it into the plastic in overlapping passes. It'll look a bit wet at first.

08

The Leveling Wipe

Wait about 5-10 minutes for the product to soak in, then take a clean microfibre and buff the surface. This removes the excess and leaves that factory-fresh satin look rather than a greasy glare.

09

Vents and Knobs

Use a dry detailing brush or a cotton bud to get the protectant into the air vents. Don't leave big globs of product in there or dust will just stick to it instantly.

10

Final Walkthrough

Open the doors and look at the console from the passenger side. You'll often see streaks you missed from the driver's seat. Give it one last buff.

Watch Out

Avoid those cheap 'shiny' sprays like the plague. They're usually packed with silicone which actually attracts dust and, even worse, acts like a magnifying glass for the sun. I've seen dashboards crack way faster because they were 'protected' with oily rubbish. Plus, the glare off a shiny dash is dangerous when you're driving into the afternoon sun.

The Toothbrush Trick

Reckon you've got all the dust out of the seams? You probably haven't. Grab an old soft toothbrush and run it along the gaps where two plastic panels meet. You'll be amazed (and probably disgusted) by what pops out. It's the difference between a 'clean' car and a detailed one.

Watch Out

If your car has that glossy 'piano black' plastic around the gear shifter, treat it like paint. It scratches if you even look at it funny. Only use high-quality, long-pile microfibres and almost zero pressure. If it's already scratched, you'll need a very fine polish by hand, but honestly, it's a losing battle with that stuff.
05

Keeping it Mint

Once you've got it looking schmick, the key is maintenance. Don't wait another year to touch it. I keep a clean microfibre and a small bottle of interior detailer in the glovebox (the missus thinks I'm obsessed, but hey, it works). Give the console a quick wipe once a week to stop the dust from settling. Also, if you're parking outside in the Aussie heat, use a sunshade. It’s the cheapest 'detailing product' you’ll ever buy. It drops the cabin temp significantly and stops the UV from cooking your hard work. If you do this every few months, your plastics will stay supple and won't get that 'sticky' feeling that old cars get when the polymers start to break down.
06

Common Questions

How do I get rid of that 'sticky' feeling on old buttons?
That's usually the soft-touch coating failing. You can sometimes clean it off with high-percentage Isopropyl Alcohol, but be careful as you'll likely remove the little white icons on the buttons too. Sometimes it's better to just leave it or look for replacement covers.
Can I use Armor All?
Look, I'm not a fan. Their original protectant is very oily. If you must use that brand, use their 'Matte' or 'Natural' finish ones, but honestly, spend the extra tenner on a pro-grade product like 303. You'll thank me later.
How do I get red dust out of the grain of the plastic?
A soft brush and a bit of steam is the only way to truly lift it. The dust gets' baked' into the texture. If you don't have a steamer, use a warm, damp cloth and keep flipping to a clean side.
My trim is already turning white, is it too late?
Probably not! It's just 'oxidised'. A deep clean and a quality restorer (like Solution Finish for black trims) can often bring it back to life. It might take two or three applications to really soak in.

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