Restoring a Used Car Like a Pro Detailer

Empty the car completely. Check under the seats, in the spare tyre well, and every cubby. My mate once found a petrified meat pie under a passenger seat that had been there since the Sydney Olympics. Chuck it all.

Before getting water involved, use compressed air or a leaf blower to get dust out of the cracks and crevices. It makes the vacuuming stage 100% easier.

Cover the alternator, air intake, and any exposed electrical bits with plastic bags. Some blokes reckon you don't need to, but I've seen too many 'check engine' lights to risk it.

Make sure the wheels are cool to the touch. Spraying wheel cleaner on hot rotors can warp them or stain the rims.

Check your window seals and sunroof. If they're perished, don't go blasting them with the pressure washer or you'll have a swimming pool inside.

Start here. Use a dedicated wheel cleaner and brushes. If there's 50,000km of brake dust, you might need a couple of hits. Scrub the tyre sidewalls with a stiff brush until the foam stays white.

Spray degreaser on a dry engine bay. Let it dwell for 5 mins (don't let it dry!). Agitate with a brush and rinse with low-pressure water. It's the biggest transformation on any used car.

Blanket the car in thick foam. This lifts the loose surface grit. Let it run off for 5-8 minutes, then rinse thoroughly from the bottom up, then top down.

Use the two-bucket method. One mit for the top half of the car, another for the bottom. This prevents you from wiping bottom-door-grime across your bonnet.

Spray iron remover over the whole car. Wait for the 'bleeding' effect. Rinse. Then spray a tar remover on the lower panels. This is crucial for cars that have lived on bitumen roads in the heat.

Use plenty of lubricant and run your clay bar/mitt over the paint. When the paint feels smooth as glass to your hand, you're done. If it feels like sandpaper, keep going.

Use a dedicated large microfibre drying towel. Or better yet, a leaf blower to get water out of the mirrors and badges so it doesn't drip later.

Take the seats out if you're feeling brave (just watch the airbag sensors!). Vacuum every square inch. Use a brush to stir up the dust while you vac.

If the seats are stained, use a carpet extractor. If you don't have one, scrub with APC and use a wet-vac to suck the moisture out. The 'brown water' you'll see is disgusting but satisfying.

Wipe down the dash, console, and door cards with APC. Use a soft brush for the textured plastics. Don't use those greasy 'shiny' protectants; they just attract dust. Use a matte finish UV protectant.

Clean the inside of the windscreen twice. Used cars often have a 'film' on the glass from old cigarette smoke or plastic outgassing. I find Autoglym Fast Glass works wonders here.

If the paint is dull, use a DA polisher with a medium-cut compound. This removes the 'swirls' and oxidation caused by the Aussie sun. Even a one-stage polish will make a massive difference.

Apply your protection. In our UV, a ceramic-infused sealant like Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax is great because it's easy to apply and lasts months.

Used cars usually have faded grey plastics. Use a trim restorer (not a dye) to bring the black back. It'll make the car look five years younger instantly.