Professional Steering Wheel Restoration and Deep Cleaning Guide

Determine the material of your wheel. Genuine leather will have a natural grain and absorb a drop of water slowly. Synthetic (Vegan) leather feels more uniform. Alcantara/Suede has a nap (fuzz). Identifying this is critical as Alcantara requires specific cleaners and cannot handle heavy agitation without pilling.

Use a vacuum with a soft brush attachment to remove loose red dust and grit from the stitching and controls. In Australia, dust acts as sandpaper; if you start scrubbing with wet chemicals immediately, you risk grinding that grit into the material and causing micro-tears.

Ensure the vehicle is in a shaded area and the steering wheel is cool to the touch. If the car has been sitting in the 40°C sun, the chemicals will flash (evaporate) too quickly, leading to uneven cleaning and potential chemical staining. Run the AC for 5 minutes if necessary.

If using a concentrated cleaner, dilute it according to the 'Heavy Soiling' ratio (usually 1:5 or 1:10) using distilled water. Pre-mix in a foaming pump bottle if possible; foam allows for longer dwell time on the vertical surfaces of the wheel without dripping into the steering column electronics.

Apply the cleaning foam directly to your boar's hair brush or scrub pad—never spray directly onto the wheel. This prevents liquid from seeping into sensitive electronics, airbag modules, or behind the paddle shifters, which can cause electrical shorts or long-term corrosion.

Divide the wheel into four quadrants. Work on one quadrant at a time (e.g., 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock). Use small, circular motions with light to medium pressure. You should see the white foam turn grey or brown as it emulsifies the oils and salt deposits.

Pay extra attention to the stitching, where red dust and sweat accumulate. Use the tips of the boar's hair brush to 'stipple' the cleaner into the threads. This is where most odours reside and where the leather is most likely to rot if neglected.

Immediately after agitating a section, use a clean, dry microfibre towel to 'roll' the dirt off. Do not just rub back and forth; use a lifting motion to pull the emulsified grime away from the surface before it has a chance to settle back into the pores.

For buttons and scroll wheels, use a slightly damp (not wet) microfibre. Use a detailing swab or a soft toothbrush to get into the crevices. Ensure no liquid enters the gaps between the buttons. In high-humidity coastal areas, this prevents salt-crust buildup around the switches.

Many people forget the rear of the steering wheel rim. This area often collects the most sweat from fingertips. Repeat the agitation and wipe-off process on the entire circumference, including the spokes and the area near the steering column.

Use a fresh microfibre towel lightly dampened with distilled water to wipe the entire wheel. This removes any residual surfactants or cleaning agents. Residual soap can attract more dirt over time and may feel 'tacky' in the Australian humidity.

Allow the wheel to air dry for 10 minutes. Once dry, the leather should appear matte and feel 'grippy' but smooth. If any shiny patches remain, repeat steps 1-4 on those specific areas, as this indicates remaining oil buildup.

Apply a pea-sized amount of leather conditioner or UV-protectant to a microfibre applicator. Work it into the wheel in a thin, even layer. For Australian conditions, look for products with 'dry-touch' technology so the wheel doesn't become greasy when your hands sweat.

After the protectant has sat for 5-10 minutes (or as per manufacturer instructions), buff the wheel with a final clean microfibre towel. This ensures an even finish and removes any excess product that could transfer to your hands while driving.