Professional Sand and Salt Decontamination Procedures (Jan 2026)

Never attempt sand removal on a hot vehicle. In 40°C heat, the water will flash-dry, leaving mineral spots and 'baking' the salt onto the finish. Move the vehicle to a shaded area and allow the panels to become cool to the touch. If shade is unavailable, work in the early morning or late evening.

Before applying water, use a cordless leaf blower or compressed air at 30-40 PSI to blow loose sand out of the 'traps': window weatherstrips, the base of the windscreen, fuel door, and door jambs. This prevents the sand from becoming a muddy paste once wet.

Prepare your snow foam at a 1:9 ratio (100ml product to 900ml water). Prepare your salt neutraliser according to the manufacturer's instructions, typically 30ml per 5L for a dedicated sprayer. Using accurate measurements ensures the chemistry works as intended without wasting product.

Turn the steering wheel to full lock to expose the inner wheel arches. Inspect for clumps of wet sand or salt crusting. Use a dedicated stiff-bristled brush to knock loose any heavy mud or sand deposits before the chemical stage.

Start from the bottom and work up. While counter-intuitive, this allows the pressure to shear the sand off the lower sills without being dampened by water running from above. Maintain a 30cm distance from the paint to avoid driving sand into the clear coat.

Apply the salt-neutralising solution liberally to the chassis, suspension components, and inside the frame rails. Let it dwell for 5-10 minutes. This chemical reaction breaks down the salt crystals that high pressure alone cannot remove.

Apply a thick layer of alkaline snow foam to the entire vehicle. The foam encapsulates remaining sand particles, lifting them off the surface. Allow it to dwell for 5 minutes, but do not let it dry. Watch for the foam changing colour to a 'dirty' brown/grey, indicating sand suspension.

Rinse the foam thoroughly from top to bottom. Use a 40-degree nozzle tip. Focus heavily on the roof gutters and the gap between the tray and cab on 4x4s, as these are primary reservoirs for salt-laden sand.

Using your pH-neutral shampoo and the two-bucket system, wash one panel at a time. Use zero pressure; let the mitt glide. After every panel, rinse the mitt in the 'rinse' bucket and scrub it against the grit guard to release trapped sand before reloading with soap.

Remove the nozzle from your hose and use a steady stream of water to 'flood' the panels. This sheeting action carries away any microscopic remnants and reduces the amount of towel drying needed, further minimising scratch risks.

Use air to dry the vehicle, focusing on mirrors, badges, and light clusters. This is critical because water trapped in these areas often contains dissolved salts that will cause 'weeping' and white crusty streaks later.

To remove sand from deep carpet, use a palm sander (without sandpaper) or a massage gun against the carpet while vacuuming. The high-frequency vibration bounces the sand to the surface of the fibres, allowing the vacuum to suck it up instantly.

Use a damp microfibre with a dedicated interior cleaner to wipe the dashboard and console. Sand grains in the interior act as abrasives on plastic; ensure you flip the towel frequently to a clean side.

Sand often leaves a film on glass. Use a dedicated glass polish or a 50/50 IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) and water mix to ensure all salt film is removed, providing clear visibility for summer driving.

Gently mist the engine bay with water (avoiding direct pressure on electrics). Salt air penetrates the engine bay easily. Wipe down plastic covers with a damp cloth to remove the fine 'salt dust' that accumulates during coastal trips.

Apply a high-quality Sio2 sealant or wax. This creates a hydrophobic layer that prevents sand and salt from sticking to the paint during your next trip, making the next wash 80% easier.