Professional Plastic Trim Restoration and UV Protection Guide

Thoroughly wash the entire vehicle to remove loose dirt and salt. Pay special attention to the gaps between plastic trim and metal panels where salt crystals and red dust accumulate. Use a pressure washer to flush out these channels. If the vehicle has been in the outback, use an iron remover on the trim to dissolve embedded metallic particles from red soil.

Dry the trim completely using a microfibre drying towel or, ideally, compressed air. Moisture trapped in the pores of the plastic or behind the trim will cause restoration coatings to fail. Inspect for 'tiger stripes' (uneven fading) or white wax residue left by previous polishing sessions. These must be identified for targeted cleaning.

Apply automotive masking tape to the paintwork and glass surrounding the plastic trim. Most professional trim restorers contain strong solvents or ceramic resins that are difficult to remove from paint once they cure. Masking takes 20 minutes but saves hours of corrective polishing later.

Apply your diluted APC (1:5 ratio) to the trim. Work in small sections (approx 50cm). Agitate vigorously with a stiff nylon brush in circular motions. You will likely see brown or grey foam—this is the 'dead' oxidised plastic and embedded dirt being lifted. Rinse with water and repeat until the foam remains white.

Once the trim is dry after the deep clean, perform a final wipe with a Panel Prep or IPA solution. This removes any remaining surfactant film from the APC and ensures the surface is chemically 'naked.' This is the most critical step for ensuring the restorer bonds to the plastic rather than sitting on top of it.

Ensure the plastic surface temperature is between 15°C and 30°C. If it is a 40°C Australian summer day, work inside a garage or under a high-quality carport. If the plastic is too hot, the solvents in the restorer will flash off too quickly, leading to streaks and poor penetration.

Apply 5-10 drops of the trim restorer (e.g., Gtechniq C4) onto a lint-free suede applicator. You want the pad to be damp but not dripping. A little goes a long way with professional-grade ceramic trim restorers.

Work in small, manageable areas (roughly 30cm x 30cm). Apply the product using overlapping vertical and horizontal strokes (cross-hatch pattern). This ensures the porous surface of the plastic is completely saturated with the resin.

Watch how the plastic reacts. Heavily weathered plastic will 'drink' the product. If the area looks patchy or dry within 30 seconds, apply a second light coat immediately while the first is still wet to ensure even saturation.

After 1-2 minutes (depending on humidity), use a clean, short-pile microfibre towel to gently wipe over the surface. This 'levels' the coating, removing any high spots or excess oil, resulting in a perfectly uniform, factory-satin finish.

Use a detailing light or a bright LED torch to check for streaks. In the harsh Australian sun, any high spots you miss will become permanent once cured. Look at the trim from multiple angles to ensure no spots were missed.

For honeycomb grilles or intricate vents, use a foam-tipped swab or a small artist's brush loaded with the restorer. Do not spray product directly onto the grille, as overspray will land on the radiator or intercooler.

Remove the masking tape carefully at a 45-degree angle while the coating is still curing. This prevents the coating from 'bridging' between the tape and the trim, which could cause peeling at the edges.

Allow the product to cure in a dry environment for at least 12 hours. Do not allow water to touch the trim during this period. If rain is forecast and you don't have a garage, delay the project. Moisture during curing will cause white spotting or 'blooming'.

Avoid washing the vehicle with any chemicals for 7 days. The ceramic resins need this time to fully cross-link with the plastic structure to provide the 12-24 months of protection promised.