Professional Paint Decontamination and Surface Restoration

In Australian summer, you must work in a shaded, well-ventilated area. Never perform decontamination on a surface that is hot to the touch. If the metal is hot, chemicals will flash (dry) instantly, causing permanent staining. Aim to work early in the morning before 9:00 AM or late in the afternoon when the UV index has dropped.

Always clean wheels first. They are the most contaminated part of the vehicle. Use your iron remover and dedicated brushes here to prevent cross-contaminating the paint later. Flush the wheel arches thoroughly to remove trapped salt or red mud that could drip onto clean panels.

Prepare your wash buckets using the two-bucket method (one for soapy water, one for rinsing the mitt). Dilute your snow foam and clay lubricant according to the manufacturer's specifications. For heavy summer grime, a slightly stronger snow foam ratio (e.g., 1:5) may be necessary to strip old sealants.

After a preliminary rinse, place your hand inside a thin plastic sandwich bag and lightly run it over the paint. The plastic amplifies the sensation of 'grit' (embedded contaminants). This helps you identify high-impact zones like the bonnet, roof, and lower sills that require extra attention.

Perform a thorough rinse from top to bottom. Focus on flushing out 'red dust' from window seals, door handles, and badges. Use high pressure (but keep the nozzle 30cm away) to remove as much loose grit as possible to prevent scratching during the contact stages.

Apply a thick layer of high-pH snow foam to the dry vehicle. Let it dwell for 4-6 minutes, but do not allow it to dry. The alkaline nature helps emulsify organic oils, bird droppings, and road film that acidic or neutral soaps can't touch. Rinse thoroughly.

Perform a standard contact wash using a high-lubricity shampoo. This removes any remaining surface dirt. Work in small sections (half a panel at a time) and rinse the wash mitt frequently in the grit-guard bucket to ensure you aren't dragging debris across the paint.

Spray the iron remover liberally over the paintwork. Within 2-3 minutes, you will see 'bleeding' (purple streaks) as the chemical reacts with sintered iron particles. In heat, you may need to mist the panels with a fine water spray to keep the product active and prevent drying. Rinse after 5 minutes.

Identify black spots of tar or sticky sap. Apply tar remover to a microfiber applicator or spray directly. Let it sit for 1-2 minutes. The tar should begin to dissolve and run. Gently wipe away with a dedicated 'sacrifice' microfiber cloth. Rinse the area immediately to neutralize the solvent.

While the car is still wet, apply a generous amount of clay lubricant to a 50x50cm section. Lubrication is the most critical factor here; the clay must glide effortlessly. If you feel resistance, apply more lubricant immediately.

Using a fine-grade clay bar or mitt, use light, linear motions (horizontal or vertical, never circular). Do not apply downward pressure. Let the clay do the work. You will initially hear a 'hissing' sound as it catches contaminants; when the sound stops and the clay glides silently, the section is clean.

If using a traditional clay bar, fold it frequently to expose a clean surface. If using a synthetic mitt, rinse it in a bucket of clean water every section to flush away the trapped grit. If you drop a traditional clay bar on the ground, discard it immediately—it will have picked up floor grit that will ruin your paint.

Once the entire vehicle has been clayed, perform a final rinse to remove all lubricant residue and loosened particles. Dry the vehicle using a high-quality, large-format microfiber drying towel or a dedicated car blower to remove water from crevices.

Perform the 'baggie test' again. The paint should now feel as smooth as glass. Inspect for any 'marring' (light cloudy scratches) caused by the claying process. Mechanical decontamination often leaves very light marring, which is why professionals usually follow this with a light polish.