Professional Motorcycle Detailing and Surface Protection

Ensure the motorcycle is completely cold to the touch. Spraying cold water or chemicals onto a hot engine block or exhaust headers can cause thermal shock, potentially cracking metal components or causing chemical cleaners to flash-dry instantly, leaving permanent streaks in the finish.

Identify and protect sensitive areas. Use low-tack automotive masking tape or plastic wrap to cover air intakes, exposed ECU connectors, and the ignition barrel. While motorcycles are designed for rain, high-pressure water can penetrate seals that gravity-fed rain cannot.

Prepare your solutions according to the ambient temperature. In 35°C+ heat, dilute your APC (All Purpose Cleaner) more than usual (e.g., 1:15 instead of 1:10) to prevent it from drying too quickly on the surface. Organise your brushes from cleanest (paintwork) to dirtiest (wheels/chain).

Position the motorcycle in a fully shaded area with a concrete floor. Direct Australian sunlight will make it impossible to manage chemical dwell times. Ensure you have a 360-degree radius of space to move around the bike without snagging hoses on the footpegs.

Use a soft, long-haired brush or low-pressure air to remove loose red dust and grit from the crevices of the engine and switchgear. Doing this before wetting the bike prevents the dust from turning into a thick mud that can settle deeper into tight tolerances.

Apply a dedicated degreaser to the chain, rear sprocket, and around the front sprocket cover. Agitate with a stiff-bristled brush. This is the messiest part of the detail; cleaning it first ensures that greasy splatter won't contaminate your clean paintwork later in the process.

Apply iron remover to the rims and brake calipers. Allow it to dwell for 3-5 minutes until the chemical turns purple, indicating a reaction with brake dust. Use a dedicated wheel brush to reach between spokes. Rinse thoroughly with a steady stream of water, ensuring no residue remains on the tyre tread.

Cover the entire motorcycle in a thick layer of pH-neutral snow foam. Let it dwell for 5 minutes. This step is critical in Australia to soften 'baked-on' insects and tropical bird droppings without needing to scrub, which prevents swirl marks on soft fairing plastics.

Using two buckets (one with shampoo, one with clean rinse water), wash the bike from top to bottom. Use a microfibre mitt and very light pressure. Wash the fuel tank and fairings first, then move down to the swingarm and lower engine casings to avoid transferring heavy grit upwards.

While the bike is soapy, use small detailing brushes to clean the cooling fins, bolt heads, and wiring looms. For air-cooled engines, ensure you reach deep into the cylinder head fins where heat-trapping dirt accumulates. This improves both aesthetics and thermal efficiency.

After rinsing, use a clay bar and clay lubricant on the fuel tank and any painted fairings. You will feel the 'drag' initially; continue until the clay glides smoothly. This removes embedded mineral deposits from rain or bore-water that a standard wash cannot touch.

Use a dedicated motorcycle dryer or a leaf blower to force water out of every nook and cranny. Pay special attention to the spark plug holes, handlebar switches, and the radiator core. This prevents 'weeping' streaks later and stops corrosion in recessed fasteners.

If the paint shows swirl marks, use a fine finishing polish on a 3-inch dual-action polisher or a microfibre applicator pad. Motorcycle clear coats are often thinner than car paint, so use a non-aggressive approach. This restores the 'depth' of color often bleached by high UV exposure.

Wipe down all painted and metal surfaces with a 50% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) solution. This removes any remaining polishing oils or soap films, ensuring the ceramic coating or sealant can form a direct chemical bond with the substrate.

Apply a high-temperature ceramic coating to the engine, exhaust, and wheels. For the paintwork, use a standard ceramic coating. Apply in small sections, wait for the 'flash' (usually 30-60 seconds depending on humidity), and buff off with a clean microfibre. This provides 12-24 months of UV and salt protection.

Apply a UV-absorbing dressing to unpainted black plastics and rubber hoses. Avoid silicone-based products which can become 'greasy' and attract dust. A high-quality trim sealant will prevent the grey 'fading' common in bikes kept outdoors in the Australian sun.

Now that the chain is clean and dry, apply a high-quality chain wax or lubricant. Rotate the wheel manually to ensure even coverage on the inner side of the links. Wipe off any excess to prevent it from flinging onto your newly detailed rear wheel during your first ride.