Professional Motorcycle Detailing and Paint Protection

Ensure the motorcycle is completely cold to the touch. Applying water or chemicals to a hot engine block or exhaust headers can cause thermal shock, leading to cracked manifolds or permanent staining of the metal. In 40°C heat, work inside a garage or under a high-quality gazebo.

Identify and protect sensitive areas. Use low-tack painters tape to cover the ignition barrel, air intake (if exposed), and any aftermarket pod filters. Ensure the exhaust outlet is plugged with a wash bung or covered with a plastic bag and rubber band to prevent moisture ingress.

Prepare your chemical ratios based on the bike's condition. For a standard detail, mix your APC (All Purpose Cleaner) at 5:1 for the lower frame and 10:1 for lighter engine grime. Fill your foam cannon with 100ml of snow foam and 900ml of warm water for optimal dwell time.

Perform a 'walk-around' to identify areas of heavy grease, bug guts on the fairings, or salt crusting near the axles. Take note of any stone chips that may need touching up later, as these are prime spots for corrosion to start in coastal humidity.

Before adding water, use a soft brush to knock off loose red dust. Then, apply a dedicated degreaser to the chain, sprocket, and lower swingarm. Let it dwell for 3-5 minutes, agitated with a stiff brush. This 'dry' start prevents the grease from emulsifying and spreading once the whole bike is wet.

Spray iron remover onto cold wheels and brake calipers. As the chemical reacts with brake dust, it will turn purple. Use a wheel woolie or dedicated brush to clean between spokes. Rinse thoroughly after 2 minutes; never let this product dry on the surface, especially on aftermarket anodised rims.

Coat the entire bike in a thick layer of snow foam. This encapsulates loose grit and allows it to slide off the paint without scratching. Let it dwell for 5 minutes in the shade. This is particularly effective for softening 'baked-on' Australian bugs on the headlight and windscreen.

Using one bucket for soapy water and one for rinsing your mitt, wash the bike from the top down. Use a dedicated microfibre mitt for the 'clean' areas (tank, fairings) and a separate one for the 'dirty' areas (lower frame, engine). This prevents transferring abrasive metallic particles back onto the paint.

While the bike is soapy, use your soft detailing brushes to reach into the cooling fins, around the spark plug recesses, and behind the radiator. For air-cooled engines, ensure you brush horizontally along the fins to remove salt and dust buildup that can impede cooling efficiency.

Rinse the bike using a gentle fan spray. Avoid high-pressure water near wheel bearings, the chain, or electrical switchgear, as this can force water past seals and cause internal corrosion or electrical shorts. Ensure all soap suds are gone from hidden crevices.

Use a dedicated vehicle blower or filtered compressed air to blast water out of every bolt hole, the chain, and the radiator core. This is the only way to prevent 'weeping' water spots that appear later. Finish by patting the paint dry with a large, plush microfibre drying towel.

Feel the paint on the tank. If it feels 'gritty', use a fine clay bar with plenty of lubricant. This removes embedded red dust and industrial fallout that washing missed. The surface should be 'glass-smooth' before proceeding to protection. Wipe clean with a fresh microfibre.

Spray a 15% Isopropyl Alcohol solution onto a cloth and wipe down all painted and metal surfaces. This removes any leftover oils from the polish or soap, ensuring the ceramic coating or sealant can bond directly to the substrate for maximum longevity.

Apply your chosen Si02 sealant or ceramic coating to the tank, fairings, and mudguards. Work in small sections (30cm x 30cm). Apply with an applicator, wait for the 'flash' (usually 30-60 seconds depending on humidity), and buff off with a clean, high-GSM microfibre. This provides the primary UV shield.

For chrome or polished stainless steel exhausts, apply a high-heat resistant metal sealant. This prevents the 'blueing' or browning of the pipes and makes it much easier to remove road tar or melted boot rubber later on.

Apply a UV-permanent trim restorer to unpainted plastics (fender extenders, switchgear housings). Avoid silicone-based 'dressings' which attract dust; use a polymer-based sealant that dries dry-to-the-touch to prevent the 'red dust' from sticking.

Now that the bike is clean and dry, re-lubricate the chain. Use a high-quality dry-film lubricant for Australian conditions to prevent sand and dust from sticking to the links, which acts like a grinding paste.