Professional Motorcycle Detailing and Environmental Protection

Never apply water or chemicals to a hot motorcycle. Rapid cooling of aluminium engine blocks can cause warping or cracking, and chemicals will flash-dry instantly, causing permanent etching. Ensure the bike has been stationary for at least 2 hours. Use an infrared thermometer if available; surfaces should be below 30°C.

Identify sensitive areas. Use painters' tape or specialized bungs to seal exhaust outlets and air intakes. While modern bikes are weather-resistant, high-pressure water can bypass seals on older ECU units or aftermarket air filters (like Pod filters). Cover exposed USB chargers or GPS mounts with small plastic bags.

Prepare your wash buckets using the two-bucket method (one for soapy water, one for rinsing). Dilute your All-Purpose Cleaner (APC) according to the level of grime. For a bike with heavy Outback dust, a 5:1 ratio is recommended. Ensure you are working in a shaded area with a cool concrete floor to keep ambient temperatures down.

Assess the state of the drive chain. If it is excessively greasy, you will need a dedicated chain cleaner (like Motul C1). Place a drip tray or cardboard under the swingarm to catch runoff, preventing oil contamination of your driveway and local waterways.

Before adding water, use a soft brush or low-pressure air to remove loose red dust and grit from the switchgear and radiator fins. Adding water to heavy dust creates a 'mud' that can act as an abrasive paste during the washing stage. Pay close attention to the area around the fuel cap.

Apply a thick layer of snow foam to the entire bike, starting from the bottom and working up. Let it dwell for 4-6 minutes, but do not allow it to dry. This encapsulates dirt and lubricates the surface. Watch for the foam changing colour to brown/grey, indicating it is successfully pulling contaminants away from the paint.

While the foam dwells, spray wheel cleaner onto the rims. Use a dedicated wheel brush to agitate the inner barrel and spokes. Use a smaller stiff brush for the tyre sidewalls to remove old dressings. Rinse thoroughly before the chemical can dry on the brake rotors.

Using a clean mitt and pH-neutral shampoo, wash the tank, fairings, and seat first. Use a second, dedicated 'dirty' mitt for the lower engine, swingarm, and exhaust. This prevents cross-contamination of oily grit onto the delicate clear-coated surfaces of the bodywork.

Apply APC to the engine block and cooling fins. Use a long-reach boar's hair brush to scrub between the fins. This is where salt and dust bake on. Agitate until a light lather forms, then rinse immediately. Ensure no soap remains in the spark plug recesses.

Spray an iron remover onto the wheels and lower frame. This dissolves 'rail dust' and brake metal particles that cause rust spots. The chemical will turn purple as it reacts. This is crucial for bikes stored near coastal railways or industrial ports. Rinse after 2-3 minutes.

If the tank feels 'sandpapery' after washing, use a clay bar with plenty of lubricant. Glide the clay over the paint until it moves smoothly. This removes embedded sap and bug proteins that washing alone cannot touch. Fold the clay frequently to expose a clean surface.

Motorcycles have too many 'nooks' for towel drying alone. Use a dedicated car/bike dryer or a leaf blower to eject water from bolt holes, the chain, radiator, and switchgear. This prevents the dreaded 'drip marks' that appear once you start riding and prevents corrosion in electrical connectors.

For fairings with swirl marks, use a dual-action polisher with a 3-inch pad. Use a fine finishing polish to restore depth. Because motorcycle clear coats are often thinner than car paint, use light pressure and check the temperature of the panel frequently to avoid burning the plastic fairings.

Wipe down all painted and metal surfaces with a 15% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) solution. This removes any remaining polishing oils or soap films, ensuring the final ceramic sealant or wax can bond directly to the substrate for maximum longevity in the heat.

Apply a ceramic-based sealant to the tank, fairings, and—crucially—the engine cases. Use a microfibre applicator pad. These coatings can withstand temperatures up to 600°C, providing a barrier against salt and preventing red dust from 'staining' the porous aluminium of the engine.

Apply a non-greasy UV protectant to plastic trim and rubber hoses (avoiding the seat and tyres for safety). Treat leather seats with a dedicated conditioner that includes UV blockers. Clean the windscreen with a dedicated plastic cleaner (like Plexus) to avoid micro-scratching.