Professional Iron Fallout Removal and Chemical Decontamination

In temperatures exceeding 35°C, vehicle panels can reach 70°C. You must ensure the car is cool to the touch. Work in a garage or under a professional gazebo. If the panel is hot, the chemical will flash-dry instantly, causing permanent streaks. Use an infrared thermometer if available; panels should be below 30°C before application.

Perform a thorough two-bucket wash using a high-alkaline 'strip' soap or a standard pH-neutral shampoo. This removes loose dirt, road film, and oils that would otherwise act as a barrier between the iron remover and the embedded metallic particles. Focus on the lower sills and rear hatch where fallout accumulation is highest.

Dry the vehicle thoroughly using a microfibre drying towel or a dedicated car blower. Iron removers are most effective on a dry surface; standing water dilutes the chemical and prevents it from dwelling effectively on the vertical panels where brake dust typically settles.

Ensure the work area is well-ventilated due to the heavy sulphur smell of the chemicals. Don your nitrile gloves and eye protection. Avoid working on porous surfaces like unsealed concrete if possible, as the 'bleeding' purple runoff can occasionally stain light-coloured driveways if not rinsed immediately.

Start with the wheels as they host the highest concentration of iron. Spray the iron remover liberally onto the cool, dry wheel surface, including the barrels and brake calipers. Allow it to dwell for 3-5 minutes. You will see the liquid turn a deep purple/red as it reacts with the brake dust.

While the product is reacting, use your wheel brushes to agitate the solution. This mechanical action helps the chemical reach deeper into the corners of the wheel nuts and behind the spokes. Do not let the product dry; if it begins to dry, mist a small amount of water or more product to keep it active.

Rinse the wheels and wheel arches thoroughly. Ensure all purple residue is gone from the brake rotors and calipers. It is critical to rinse the driveway at this stage to prevent any concentrated runoff from sitting on the ground.

Apply the iron remover to the lower third of the vehicle panels, the front bumper, and the rear of the car. These are the primary zones for road-borne metallic debris. Work one side of the car at a time to maintain control over dwell times.

Observe the paint for 'bleeding.' On white or silver cars, this is highly visible. On darker cars, look for a slight thickening of the liquid. In the Australian summer, this reaction happens quickly. Allow a dwell time of 2-4 minutes, but never allow the product to dry to a haze.

Mist the remaining upper panels, including the bonnet and roof. While fallout is less common here, industrial fallout from the atmosphere settles on these horizontal surfaces. Use approximately 250ml of product for a standard sedan to ensure adequate coverage.

For heavily contaminated vehicles, use a damp microfibre wash mitt to gently spread the iron remover across the panel. This ensures even coverage and helps the chemical break through thicker layers of contamination. Do not apply pressure; let the chemistry do the work.

Rinse the entire vehicle from the top down. Use high pressure to flush the chemical out of window seals, door handles, and badges. These areas trap the chemical, which can lead to 'runs' later if not flushed out properly. Spend at least 5 minutes on the final rinse.

While the car is still wet, use a clay bar and lubricant to remove any remaining non-metallic contaminants (tree sap, overspray). The chemical step has already removed the sharpest particles, making the claying process much safer and reducing the risk of marring the paint.

Perform a final quick wash with a foam cannon or wash mitt to remove any lubricant residue and any leftover chemical traces. This ensures the paint is completely 'naked' and ready for the next stage of protection.