Professional Exhaust Tip Restoration and Maintenance Guide (Jan 2026)

Ensure the exhaust system is completely cold to the touch. In Australian summer conditions, a vehicle driven even briefly can retain heat for hours. Working on hot metal causes chemicals to flash (evaporate) instantly, leading to chemical staining and ineffective cleaning. Use an infrared thermometer if available; surface temp should be below 30°C.

Use a high-pressure hose to blast away loose red dust, sand, or salt crust. This is critical because these particles are abrasive; if you start wiping immediately, you will grind these minerals into the metal finish, creating deep scratches that require professional sanding to remove.

If your vehicle has a plastic rear diffuser or painted bumper sections close to the tips, use low-tack painter's tape to mask off the edges. Metal polishes are highly abrasive and will permanently whiten textured plastics or scratch clear coats if accidental contact occurs.

Apply your chosen degreaser at a 4:1 ratio (4 parts water, 1 part product) if using a concentrate. Spray liberally inside and outside the tip. Allow it to dwell for 3-5 minutes, but do not let it dry. This softens the carbon binders before mechanical agitation begins.

Using a stiff nylon detailing brush, work the degreaser into the soot on the inner rim and the exterior of the tip. Focus on the 'bottom' of the tip where water and road salt typically pool. Rinse thoroughly with clean water once the suds turn black, indicating carbon suspension.

For tips with visible 'crust' or black spotting, apply a small amount of metal polish directly onto a piece of 0000 steel wool. Using light pressure, rub in a back-and-forth motion (follow the grain of the metal if visible). The polish acts as a lubricant. Continue until the thick black deposits are gone.

In coastal areas, you'll see golden-brown spots (tea staining). Apply a dedicated metal polish to a microfibre applicator and work in circular motions. The chemical cleaners in the polish will react with the oxidation. You should see the paste turn black—this is a positive sign of the chemical reaction removing oxidised metal.

Rinse the tips again to remove all abrasive residues from the steel wool and the initial polishing pass. Dry the metal completely using a clean, dedicated microfibre towel. Any water left behind will dilute the fine finishing polish in the next step.

Switch to a clean microfibre applicator and a fine finishing polish. This stage refines the surface to a mirror-like clarity. Work in smaller sections, applying moderate pressure. Use a fresh microfibre cloth to buff the residue away immediately before it dries. The metal should now feel 'squeaky' clean and look reflective.

Don't ignore the inside of the tip. Even if you can't achieve a mirror finish deep inside, cleaning the first 2-3cm of the inner diameter creates a professional 'finished' look. Use the remaining polish on your cloth to clean this area thoroughly.

Spray a 70% Isopropyl Alcohol solution onto a clean cloth and wipe the entire surface. This removes polishing oils and lubricants that would otherwise prevent your sealant or ceramic coating from bonding to the metal. The surface must be 'chemically bare'.

Apply 3-4 drops of a high-temp ceramic coating to a suede applicator or apply a thin layer of high-temp wax. Cover the entire exterior and the reachable interior of the tip. This creates a hydrophobic barrier that repels salt, red dust, and prevents carbon from 'baking' onto the metal in the future.

Allow the protection to bond. If using a ceramic coating, avoid driving the vehicle for at least 12 hours. In the Australian summer heat, curing may happen faster, but keeping the vehicle in a shaded garage is essential to prevent dust from settling on the tacky coating.

Using a bright LED torch, inspect the tips for any high spots (streaky areas of coating) or missed soot. Buff off any high spots with a clean microfibre. The tips should now have a deep, lustrous shine that resists the elements.