What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, anyone can wash a car, but getting that deep, wet-look shine takes a bit more effort. After 15 years in the trade, I've seen too many blokes ruin their clear coat because they rushed the prep. This guide is for when you're ready to pick up a machine polisher and actually fix the paint, especially if you're dealing with baked-on bird droppings or that fine red dust that gets everywhere. It's autumn now, so it's the perfect time to get a solid layer of protection on before the winter rains hit.
The 'No-Nonsense' Gear Bag
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Pre-Start Checklist
What You'll Need
The Detailer’s Workflow
Chemical Decontamination
Spray iron remover on dry paint. Let it bleed purple for 3-5 mins, but don't let it dry. Rinse thoroughly. This kills the coastal salt creep.
Mechanical Claying
Use plenty of lube and glide the clay over the paint. If it feels 'gritty', keep going until it's smooth as glass. (Watch out for red dust buildup).
Tape Up
Cover your plastic trim, badges, and rubber. Trust me, getting dried white polish off textured black plastic is a job I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy.
The Test Spot
Always start with the least aggressive combo. Try a polishing pad first. If that doesn't shift the swirls, then move up to the heavy cutting compound.
Section Passes
Work in a 50x50cm square. Use slow, overlapping arm movements. 4-5 passes is usually enough. Don't press too hard-let the machine do the work.
Wipe and Inspect
Use your IPA spray to reveal the true surface. If you see 'pigtails' or hazing, you might need a softer pad and a finer finishing polish.
Protection Layer
Apply your ceramic or sealant. If using ceramic, work panel by panel and watch for the 'flash' (rainbow effect) before wiping off. Don't rush this.
Final Inspection Checklist
What You'll Need
Watch Out
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