What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, I've spent 15 years in the sun detailing everything from clapped-out utes to show-quality HSVs. This guide is for anyone who wants to actually look after their pride and joy. We'll go through a solid monthly routine that tackles the unique stuff we deal with here, like that thick red dust and the morning frost we get in June.
Why a 'Quick Wash' isn't enough
The Essential Gear
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Before You Start
Find some shade
Never wash a car in direct sunlight if you can help it. Even in June, the Aussie sun will dry your soap too fast and leave water spots. If you've got no shade, do it early in the arvo when the sun's low.
Check the temperature
Touch the bonnet. If it's too hot to keep your hand on, it's too hot to wash. Spray it down with cool water first to bring the temp down.
Set up your stations
Get your two buckets ready, one with soapy water, one with plain water for rinsing your mitt. This is the 'Two Bucket Method' and it's the only way I trust.
The Deep Clean Procedure
Wheels first, always
Start with the wheels because they're the filthiest part. If you do them last, you'll just splash brake dust onto your clean paint. Use a dedicated wheel cleaner and your brushes to get into the barrels.
The Pre-Rinse
Give the whole car a good blast with the hose. You want to get as much loose grit and red dust off as possible before you actually touch the paint.
Snow Foam (Optional but recommended)
If you've got a foam cannon, use it. Let it dwell for 5 minutes then rinse. It lifts the dirt away from the surface so you don't drag it across the paint later.
The Contact Wash
Start from the top and work your way down. Roof, then windows, then bonnet, then sides. Rinse your mitt in the plain water bucket after every panel. This sounds tedious, but it's how you avoid swirl marks.
Iron Decontamination
After rinsing the soap, spray an iron remover on the paint. If it turns purple, that's the chemical reacting with embedded metal bits from the road. Rinse it off thoroughly. (Don't let this dry!)
Clay Bar Treatment
Run your hand over the paint. Feel tiny bumps? That's contamination. Use a clay mitt with plenty of soapy water as lubricant. This makes the paint as smooth as glass. A customer once brought in a Ranger that felt like sandpaper, 20 minutes with a clay mitt and it was back to factory smooth.
Final Rinse
One last blast to make sure all the clay lube and loosened muck is gone. Pay attention to the door shuts and fuel cap.
Drying
Don't use a chamois. They just drag dirt. Use a big, plush microfibre towel. I like to 'pat' the car dry rather than rubbing. If you've got a leaf blower, use it to get water out of the mirrors and badges.
Seal the Paint
Now the paint is naked. You need to protect it. Apply your sealant or wax. Personally, I reckon Gtechniq C2V3 is a cracker for monthly maintenance, just spray on and wipe off.
Glass and Tyres
Clean the glass inside and out. Then, apply a tyre dressing. Don't go for that super greasy 'wet' look, it just slings all over your clean paint the second you drive off. A nice matte finish looks much more professional.
Pro Tip: Dealing with the 'Red Death'
Watch Out
Watch Out
Maintaining the Shine
Common Questions
Can't I just use dish soap?
How often should I clay bar?
What's the best way to get rid of salt spray?
Is it okay to wash the car when it's frosty?
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