Mitigating and Repairing Paint Damage from Avian and Bat Droppings

Never attempt to remove dried droppings from a hot panel. If the metal is too hot to touch comfortably (above 45°C), the cleaning solution will flash-dry, potentially causing further chemical staining. Move the vehicle into a shaded garage or wait for the evening. In the Australian summer, a panel in direct sun can reach 70°C, which instantly bakes any chemicals applied to it.

Mix your encapsulating lubricant using distilled water in a high-pressure spray bottle. Using distilled water is crucial in Australia as many regional areas have 'hard' water high in calcium. Hard water reduces the effectiveness of surfactants and can leave mineral rings around the area you are trying to clean.

Walk around the vehicle and identify all areas of contamination. Do not miss the roof or the area near the windscreen wipers. Bat droppings in particular often contain large seeds or fruit pits which are highly abrasive; identifying these early ensures you don't drag them across the paint during the removal phase.

Liberally spray the affected area with your diluted encapsulating lubricant. Do not touch the spot yet. You must allow the surfactants to penetrate the dried uric acid and seeds for at least 3-5 minutes. If the solution begins to dry due to ambient heat, mist more product over it to keep it wet. This softens the 'crust' without mechanical friction.

For thick or stubborn deposits, soak a clean microfibre towel in your lubricant and place it directly over the dropping. Leave it for an additional 5 minutes. This 'poultice' effect provides constant moisture and chemical action, breaking down the organic bonds holding the dropping to the clear coat.

Using a fresh microfibre towel, pinch the softened dropping and lift it vertically away from the paint. Do not wipe in a circular or back-and-forth motion. Wiping at this stage is the primary cause of 'pigtail' scratches, as the sand and seeds in the dropping act like sandpaper against the softened clear coat.

Once the bulk solids are removed, spray the area again. Use a clean section of the towel to gently wipe the remaining film. This ensures all acidic remnants are neutralised and removed from the microscopic pores of the paint.

Dry the area with a fresh, dry microfibre. Inspect the site for 'etching'—a ghost-like outline or a wrinkled texture where the dropping once was. If the paint looks perfectly smooth, proceed to step 9. If you see a mark, you have a chemical etch that requires mechanical leveling.

Interestingly, some 'topographical' etchings in modern clear coats can be 'self-healed' with heat. Use a professional heat gun or a hair dryer on a medium setting to gently warm the etched area. Do not exceed 60°C. Sometimes the paint will 'flow' back into place, disappearing before your eyes. If this fails, move to mechanical polishing.

Apply 3 pea-sized drops of fine finishing polish to a foam polishing pad. Using a DA polisher on speed 3-4, work a 20x20cm area around the etch. Use light pressure and slow arm speed. The goal is to remove 1-2 microns of clear coat to level the surface. Monitor the temperature of the panel constantly with your hand.

Wipe away polish residue with a clean towel and inspect the surface under a high-lumen LED torch. If the etching is still visible, repeat Step 7 once more. If it persists after two passes, the damage may be through the clear coat, requiring professional wet sanding or a respray.

Spray the cleaned/polished area with an IPA prep spray. This removes any polishing oils or lubricant surfactants that would prevent a sealant from bonding. The surface should feel 'squeaky' clean to the touch.

Apply a high-quality Si02-based ceramic sealant. These products offer far superior heat and acid resistance compared to traditional carnauba waxes, which melt at 60-80°C. Buff to a high shine. This creates a sacrificial barrier that buys you more time before the next dropping can reach the paint substrate.