Mastering the Machine: How to Polish Your Paint Like a Pro

Give it a proper two-bucket wash. Use a strip soap if you have it to get rid of old waxes. Make sure you get all that red dust out of the window seals and door jambs, or it'll fly out and ruin your polishing pad later.

Spray an iron remover (like Bowden's Wheely Clean, yeah, you can use it on paint too) over the car. It'll turn purple as it dissolves metal fallout from brake dust and rail lines. Rinse it off thoroughly.

Run your hand over the paint. Feel those little bumps? That's embedded grit. Use a clay mitt with plenty of soapy water as lube until the paint feels smooth as glass. This is non-negotiable.

Use a big microfibre drying towel. Then use a leaf blower or compressed air to get water out of the mirrors and badges. A single drip of water mid-polish will make your compound splatter everywhere.

Spend 20 minutes taping off any black plastic trim, rubber window seals, and badges. If the polishing pad hits dry rubber, it'll leave a white mark that's a nightmare to get off.

Start on the bonnet, it's flat and easy to see. Work in a section about 50cm x 50cm. Don't try to do the whole panel at once.

Put 4-5 pea-sized drops of compound on your foam pad. Use your finger to spread it thin across the face of the pad so there are no dry spots.

This is crucial. Always start with your least aggressive combo (finishing polish and a soft pad). If that clears the swirls, great! If not, move up to the heavy stuff. No point removing more clear coat than you need to.

With the machine OFF, dab the pad around your 50cm section to spread the product. This prevents the 'polishes-on-the-walls' scenario when you pull the trigger.

Set your DA to speed 1 or 2. Place the pad flat on the paint, then turn it on. Move the machine slowly across the section just to get an even coat of product.

Turn the speed up to 4 or 5 for cutting. You don't need to lean on the machine like a madman, let the weight of the tool and the speed of the pad do the work.

Move the machine left-to-right, then up-and-down. Overlap each pass by about 50%. Move slow, about 2-3cm per second.

Keep going for about 4-6 passes until the polish starts to look clear or 'oily'. This means the abrasives have broken down and done their job.

Turn the machine off while it's still on the paint. Use a clean microfibre to wipe the residue. Spray your IPA/Panel Prep and wipe again to see the true state of the paint.

Use your LED light. Are the swirls gone? If yes, move to the next section. If not, you might need a second hit or a heavier pad.

After every single section, use your brush to flick out the spent polish and paint residue. A loaded pad won't cut and just generates heat.

Once the whole car is 'cut', switch to your soft finishing pad and finishing polish. Use the same technique but on a lower speed (3 or 4). This is where the crazy depth and gloss come from.