Mastering the Dual Action Polisher for Surface Restoration

Perform a 'strip wash' using a high-pH soap to remove old waxes and sealants. Focus on gaps where red dust hides, such as window seals and fuel doors. Use a pressure washer to ensure all grit is removed from the lower sills to prevent it being picked up by the polishing pad.

Use a clay bar with ample lubricant over the entire vehicle. In coastal areas, you may feel 'grit' which is often salt-bonded oxidation. Continue until the paint feels as smooth as glass. This is critical; any remaining contaminant will be ground into the paint by the polisher, causing deep scratches.

Use automotive-grade masking tape (usually green or blue) to cover rubber window trims, unpainted plastic plastics, and badge edges. DA polishers can quickly burn or stain textured plastics, and the white residue from compounds is notoriously difficult to remove from rubber seals.

Visually inspect the paint for thin spots, particularly on edges and swage lines where factory paint is thinnest. If the vehicle has had previous 'Stage 3' corrections, proceed with extreme caution. If you see 'crow's feet' (tiny cracks in the clear coat), do not polish that area as it indicates clear coat failure.

Apply 4-5 pea-sized drops of compound to a fresh foam pad. Spread the polish across the pad face with your finger to ensure even coverage. This 'priming' ensures there are no dry spots on the foam that could cause friction-induced marring on the first pass.

Work in a manageable 50cm x 50cm area. Do not attempt to polish an entire door at once. Smaller sections allow you to maintain consistent pressure and ensure the abrasives break down correctly before the polish dries out in the summer heat.

With the machine off, press the pad against the paint in 4-5 spots within your work zone. This distributes the product evenly and prevents 'sling' (polish splattering) when you trigger the motor.

Place the pad flat on the surface and start the machine on a low speed. Spread the product quickly across the 50cm section. This ensures the entire area has a thin, even film of abrasive ready for the correction phase.

Increase the machine speed. Apply moderate downward pressure—enough to compress the foam slightly but not enough to stop the pad from rotating. Use a 'cross-hatch' pattern: move the machine horizontally across the section, then vertically, overlapping each pass by 50%.

Move the machine slowly. A professional arm speed is roughly 2-3 centimetres per second. If you move too fast, the abrasives don't have time to 'cut' the paint defects. Maintain the cross-hatch for 4-6 passes per section.

Watch the polish as you work. It will start as a milky film, then turn translucent/oily. Once it becomes translucent, the abrasives have broken down. Stop immediately if the polish begins to 'dust' or dry out, which happens quickly in Australian summer humidity.

Using a clean microfibre towel, gently wipe away the residue. Spray the area with an IPA-based panel wipe to remove polishing oils. Use your LED inspection light to check the results. If swirls remain, a second set of passes may be required.

After every single section, use your nylon brush or compressed air to clean the 'spent' paint and dried polish out of the pad. A clogged pad will stop cutting and start generating excessive heat, which can lead to pad delamination.

Once the heavy defects are removed, switch to a soft finishing pad and a fine polish. Repeat the process with lighter pressure and slightly faster arm speed. This 'jewels' the paint, creating the deep, mirror-like reflection expected of a professional detail.