Mastering the Dual Action Polisher: A Technical Guide to Paint Correction

Thoroughly wash the vehicle using the two-bucket method. Use a high-pH 'strip wash' or add 30ml of an APC (All Purpose Cleaner) to your soap to remove old waxes. Follow with an iron fallout remover to dissolve metallic particles embedded in the paint from brake dust, which is prevalent in stop-start city driving.

Even after washing, the paint will have bonded contaminants. Use a clay bar with ample lubricant over every square inch of the painted surfaces. The paint should feel 'glass smooth' to the touch. This prevents the polisher from picking up grit and scouring the paintwork during the correction phase.

Dry the car completely using a dedicated drying towel or forced air. Use automotive masking tape (low tack) to cover all unpainted plastics, rubber window seals, and door handles. Machine polish can permanently whiten textured plastics, and the friction can melt delicate rubber seals.

Position your LED lights at a 45-degree angle to the panels to highlight defects. Ensure the car's surface temperature is below 30°C. If the metal is too hot to touch comfortably, the polish will dry prematurely (flash), leading to dusting and poor results. Work in a garage or under a high-quality gazebo.

Apply 4-5 pea-sized drops of compound to a fresh foam pad. Use your finger to spread the polish evenly across the face of the pad. This 'priming' ensures every part of the foam is lubricated, preventing 'dry buffing' which can cause hazing on the paint surface.

Work in a small section, no larger than 50cm x 50cm. Place the pad on the paint and 'dab' the polish across the section before turning the machine on. This prevents 'sling'—where polish is flung across the car and garage walls when the motor starts.

Set your DA polisher to its lowest speed setting (usually 1 or 2). With the pad flat against the panel, turn the machine on and quickly spread the product across your 50cm square. This ensures an even film of abrasive particles is ready for the correction phase.

Increase the speed to setting 4 or 5. Move the polisher in a 'cross-hatch' pattern: first horizontally (left to right), then vertically (up and down). Move the machine slowly—about 2-3cm per second. You should complete 4 to 6 passes per section depending on the severity of the defects.

Apply moderate pressure (about 2-5kg). You want the pad to compress slightly but keep rotating. Most DA polishers have a mark on the backing plate; if that mark stops spinning and only jiggles, you are applying too much pressure, which stalls the machine and prevents correction.

As you work, the opaque polish will begin to turn translucent or clear. This is the 'flash point,' indicating the abrasives have broken down and done their work. Stop immediately once this happens to avoid dry-buffing the clear coat.

Use a clean microfibre cloth to gently wipe away the residue. Spray the section with an IPA panel prep solution to remove any remaining oils. Use your LED inspection light to check the results. If swirls remain, repeat the process; if the finish is clear, move to the next section.

After every section, use a pad brush or compressed air to blow out spent polish and paint residue from the foam. A loaded pad becomes heavy, loses its cutting ability, and generates excessive heat, which is dangerous for the paint and the machine's motor.

If you used a heavy cutting compound, the paint might look slightly hazy (micromarring). Switch to a finishing pad and a fine polish. Repeat the cross-hatch process on speed 3 or 4 with very light pressure to bring out the maximum gloss and depth.

Once the entire vehicle is polished, perform a final wipe-down with a fresh microfibre and panel prep. This ensures the surface is chemically clean and ready for your chosen protection, whether it be a traditional Carnauba wax or a modern ceramic coating.