Mastering the Dual Action Polisher: A Technical Guide for Paint Correction

Before polishing, the paint must be surgically clean. Perform a 'strip wash' using a high-pH soap to remove old waxes. Apply an Iron Remover (pH-neutral) to dissolve embedded metallic fallout from brake dust, and a Tar Remover for road bitumen. This prevents these hard particles from being caught in your polishing pad and scouring the paint.

Run your hand over the clean, dry paint using a plastic sandwich bag as a glove. If it feels 'gritty', use a medium-grade clay bar or clay mitt with plenty of lubricant. This removes bonded contaminants like red dust and tree sap. Failure to do this will result in the polisher picking up grit and creating deeper scratches.

Use automotive masking tape to cover all unpainted plastic trim, rubber window seals, door handles, and badges. DA polishers can quickly 'burn' or whiten textured plastics and snag on the edges of badges. In the Australian sun, these plastics are often already brittle; masking is a mandatory safety step.

Visually inspect the paint for 'clear coat failure' (peeling or white chalky patches). If the clear coat has failed, do not polish that area, as you will only make it worse. Check for thin spots on edges and swage lines where the paint is naturally thinner due to the factory spraying process.

Apply 4-5 pea-sized drops of compound to a fresh foam pad. Use your finger to spread the polish evenly across the entire face of the pad. This ensures that every part of the foam is lubricated, preventing 'dry buffing' which causes excessive heat and uneven correction.

Work in a small, manageable area, typically 50cm x 50cm (about 4x the size of the polisher head). Working in larger areas leads to the polish drying out too quickly, especially in Australian summer humidity, which reduces effectiveness and makes removal difficult.

With the machine OFF, dab the pad across your 50cm section to distribute the polish. Set the polisher to Speed 1 and spread the product over the area in 5 seconds. This prevents 'sling' (polish splattering everywhere) when you turn the speed up.

Always start with the least aggressive combination (Finishing pad + Fine polish). Perform one set of passes and inspect. If the swirls remain, move to a medium pad/polish. Never jump straight to a heavy cut unless the paint condition specifically requires it, as you want to preserve as much clear coat as possible.

Set the DA to Speed 4 or 5 for cutting. Move the machine at a rate of 2-3cm per second. Apply 'downward pressure' equivalent to about 2-3kg (enough to compress the foam slightly but not stop the rotation). Modern DA polishers rely on speed and oscillation rather than heavy muscle power.

Move the polisher in overlapping horizontal lines, then repeat the process with vertical lines. This ensures 100% coverage and a uniform finish. Complete 4-6 'passes' (one horizontal + one vertical = one pass) until the polish goes translucent/clear.

Periodically touch the paint surface. It should feel warm, but never hot to the touch. In 35°C+ weather, work in the shade and use a fan if necessary. Excessive heat can cause the paint to soften, leading to 'sticky paint' issues where the polish gums up.

Use a clean microfibre cloth to wipe away the residue. Spray the area with a Panel Wipe (IPA) to remove polishing oils. Inspect the surface with your LED light. Look for 'hazing' or remaining deep scratches (RIDS). If satisfied, move to the next section.

After every section, use your pad brush while the machine is running at Speed 1 to flick out dried polish and paint residue. A clogged pad loses its cutting ability and generates more heat. Switch to a fresh pad every 2-3 panels.

Once the entire car has been compounded (cut), switch to a Finishing Pad and Fine Polish. Set the machine to Speed 3. This stage removes the 'haze' left by the heavy cutting and brings out the maximum depth and gloss. Use very light pressure and slightly faster arm speed.