What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, if you live in Australia, your car's paint is basically under constant attack. Between the scorching UV in Queensland, the salt air on the coast, and that bloody red dust that gets into every crevice, a quick splash with a hose at the servo just won't cut it. This guide is for the blokes and ladies who actually want their pride and joy to last. I've been doing this for 15 years, and I'm going to show you the right way to do it without wasting your weekend.
The Reality of Owning a Car in Oz
The Gear You Actually Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Setting the Scene
Find the Shade
Never, ever wash your car in direct sunlight. The water and soap will dry instantly, leaving spots that are a nightmare to get off. Wait for the arvo or do it under a carport.
The Wheel First Rule
I always do the wheels first. Why? Because they're the filthiest part. If you do them last, you'll spray brake dust and grime all over your clean paint.
Cold Surface Check
Touch the panels. If they're hot to the touch, give them a rinse with cold water first to bring the temp down before you apply any chemicals.
The Professional Wash Routine
The Big Rinse
Give the whole car a massive rinse. You're trying to get off as much loose red dust and grit as possible. If you've just come back from the beach, spend extra time under the wheel arches to get the salt out.
Wheel Decontamination
Spray your wheel cleaner on. Let it sit for a minute (don't let it dry!) and use a brush to get into the gaps. Rinse it off thoroughly.
The Two-Bucket Setup
Fill one bucket with soapy water and the other with plain water. This is the 'Rinse' bucket. Every time you wipe a panel, you rinse the mitt in the plain water before going back into the soap. It keeps the grit out of your wash mitt.
Start from the Top
Wash the roof first, then the glass, then the bonnet. Work your way down. The bottom 20cm of the car is always the dirtiest, so leave that for last.
Check for 'The Nasties'
If you see bird poo or squashed bugs, don't scrub them hard. Let the soap sit on them for a bit to soften them up, then gently wipe. Scrubbing causes swirls (those spider-web scratches).
Rinse as You Go
If it's a bit warm out, rinse each panel after you've washed it. Don't let the soap dry on the paint.
The Clay Bar (If Needed)
After rinsing, run your hand over the wet paint. If it feels like sandpaper, you need a clay bar. Use heaps of soapy water as lubricant and gently rub the clay over the paint until it's smooth. I learned this the hard way when I tried to wax a 'dirty' car and just ground the contaminants into the clear coat.
Drying
Chuck your big microfibre towel over the roof and just pull it towards you. Don't use a chamois, they're old school and actually trap dirt against the paint. Microfibre is the only way to go.
Seal the Deal
Once the car is dry, apply your sealant or wax. If you're using a spray ceramic like the Meguiar's one, just spray a bit on a microfibre applicator and wipe it over the panel. A little goes a long way.
Glass and Tyres
Clean the windows with a dedicated glass cleaner (no ammonia!). For the tyres, use a water-based dressing. Oil-based ones look shiny but they sling black grease down the side of your car the second you hit 60km/h.
Watch Out
Pro Tip: Dealing with the 'Bug Cemetery'
Watch Out
Keeping it Looking Good
Common Questions from the Shed
Can I just use dish soap?
How often should I wax my car?
Is a ceramic coating worth the money?
What's the best way to get red dust out of the crevices?
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