What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, I've spent over 15 years polishing everything from clapped-out farm utes to brand new Ferraris, and I can tell you one thing for sure: the Aussie sun doesn't care how much you paid for your car. Between the 40-degree days, the salty breeze if you're near the coast, and the red dust that gets into every nook and cranny, your paint is constantly under fire. This guide is all about setting up a proper shield for your car so you can spend more time driving and less time worrying about sun damage.
The Reality of Aussie Paint Care
The Gear You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Preparation is Everything
Deep Clean Wash
Give the car a proper two-bucket wash. Start from the top and work your way down. If it's a hot day, do one panel at a time and rinse immediately. Never, ever wash a car while the panels are hot to the touch, you'll just get water spots that are a nightmare to remove.
Decontamination
Spray an iron remover on the paint. If it turns purple, it's working. Rinse it off, then use your clay bar or mitt over the whole car. If you've been driving outback or near construction sites, you'll feel the paint go from feeling like sandpaper to smooth glass. This is the secret to a 'pro' finish.
Dry and Strip
Dry the car thoroughly (a leaf blower is great for getting water out of the mirrors). Then, wipe the whole car down with a panel prep or IPA solution. This removes any leftover soaps or old waxes. If you don't do this, your new protection won't bond and it'll be gone after the first rain.
Applying the Protection
Find some shade
Do not try this in direct sunlight. If you don't have a garage or a carport, wait until late arvo when the sun is low. Heat makes the product dry too fast, which leads to 'high spots' or streaks that are a pain to buff out.
Prime your applicator
Put a few drops of your sealant or wax onto the pad. You don't need much. To be honest, most blokes use way too much product. Less is more here.
Work in small sections
I usually stick to half a bonnet or one door at a time. Work in a cross-hatch pattern (up and down, then side to side) to ensure you haven't missed a spot.
Watch the 'Flash' time
If you're using a ceramic sealant, it'll 'flash' or look like an oil slick on a puddle. That's your cue. Depending on the humidity, this could be 30 seconds or 2 minutes.
The First Wipe
Use a clean microfibre to level the product. You're not trying to scrub it off, just spreading it evenly and taking the excess away.
The Final Buff
Switch to a fresh, dry microfibre and buff the section to a high shine. Check it from different angles, I like to use a torch or even my phone light to make sure there are no cloudy spots left behind.
Overlap your work
When you move to the next section, overlap slightly with the previous one. This ensures you don't have any 'naked' gaps in your protection.
Check the trim
If you're using a traditional wax, try not to get it on black plastic trim, it'll turn white and look rubbish. If you do, wipe it off immediately with a damp cloth.
Don't forget the glass
Most modern ceramic sealants (like Bowden's Bead Machine) work great on glass too. It makes the rain fly off during those sudden summer thunderstorms.
Let it cure
Once you're done, let the car sit in the dry for at least 12-24 hours if you can. Don't go through a car wash or get it wet immediately.
Pro Tip: The Bat Poo Emergency Kit
Watch Out
The Long Game: Maintenance
Watch Out
Common Questions from the Shed
How often should I protect my paint for Aussie conditions?
Can I use dish soap to wash the car before I protect it?
Is a ceramic coating worth the money?
The red dust won't come off my white ute, what do I do?
One Last Thing
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