Keeping Your Door Panels From Fading and Cracking

Honestly, I wouldn't bother with those cheap, greasy 'protectants' you find at the servo. They're usually loaded with silicone that just attracts more dust. I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore I used to own, one trip out bush and the doors were orange because the dust stuck to the oily finish. Use a dedicated interior detailer like Bowden's Own Interior Detailer or Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer. They leave a matte finish that actually feels dry to the touch.

If you've just come back from a trip up north and your door pockets are full of red dust, don't just wipe it with a wet rag. All you'll do is make mud and push it deeper into the grain. I reckon the best way is to use a dry, soft detailing brush and a vacuum first. Agitate the dust while the vacuum sucks it up. Only once the loose stuff is gone should you go in with your liquid cleaner. Trust me on this one, it saves a massive headache.

A customer once brought in a late-model Prado that had a shocking wind whistle. Turns out, the door rubbers were bone dry and caked in salt spray. When you're doing your door panels, give the rubber seals a wipe with a damp cloth. If they're looking a bit perished, hit them with some aerospace protectant (303 is my go-to). It keeps them supple so they actually seal properly against the heat and dust.

This is the bane of my existence during an Aussie summer. Those white, chalky marks from sunscreen are a nightmare to get off once they bake in the sun. If you see them, tackle them fast. I've found a mild APC (All Purpose Cleaner) diluted 10:1 and a soft magic eraser works, but be careful, don't scrub too hard or you'll take the texture right off the plastic. (Made that mistake once, never again).