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Exterior Care intermediate 12 min read

Keeping Your Caravan or Camper Spotless After a Big Lap

Most car owners make this harder than it needs to be. Here's the straightforward approach that actually works—no fluff, no upselling.

Getting red dust out of every crevice and protecting your van's gelcoat from the brutal Aussie sun isn't just about a quick wash. This is how you deep clean and protect your home-on-wheels so it actually lasts.

MT
Mick Thompson Senior Detailing Editor
| Updated: 3 March 2026
What You'll Learn
Keeping Your Caravan or Camper Spotless After a Big Lap

Aussie Conditions

Australian conditions are tougher than most—intense UV, red dust, coastal salt, and 40°C summers. European car care advice often doesn't cut it here.
Quick Summary

Look, cleaning a caravan isn't like washing a Corolla; it's a massive job that'll take you a full weekend if you do it right. I've put this together for anyone who's just come back from a dusty trek or a month beachside and wants to stop their investment from turning into a chalky mess. We're talking everything from roof seals to getting that stubborn red dirt out of the awning.

01

Real Talk: Why Caravans Are a Different Beast

Right, let's be honest. Most people buy a caravan, spend eighty grand on it, and then treat the exterior like an afterthought. I've been detailing for over 15 years now, and I can't tell you how many times a mate or a customer has brought me a three-year-old Jayco that looks like it's been sitting in a paddock for a decade. The gelcoat is chalky, the seals are cracking, and there's enough red dust in the window tracks to start a small farm. I learned this the hard way when I first started out. I took on a big dual-axle off-roader that had just come back from the Gibb River Road. I thought I'd just hit it with the pressure washer and be done in two hours. Big mistake. I ended up spending six hours just on the roof because I didn't have the right chemicals for the baked-on red mud, and I nearly boiled myself alive in the sun. Truth be told, if you don't have a plan, you're just moving dirt from one spot to another. In Australia, we've got it tough. If it's not the UV literally eating your decals, it's the salt spray from a week at over-priced caravan parks in Byron, or those lovely fruit bats leaving 'presents' that eat through your paint faster than acid. This guide is about doing it properly. We're going to cover the right gear, the right way to climb on that roof without ending up in the hospital, and how to make sure the next time you head out, the dust doesn't stick quite so hard. Put the kettle on, grab a cold one, and let's get into it.
02

The Gear You Actually Need

What You'll Need

0/12
A Proper Telescopic Wash Pole — Don't buy the $15 one from the discount shop. Get a sturdy one with a soft-bristle head. I reckon the ones with the water-through feature are a gimmick-they just leak and make you wet. Get a solid pole.
Dedicated Caravan Wash (pH Neutral) — I swear by Bowden's Own Nanolicious or Meguiar's Hyper Wash. Avoid cheap 'truck wash' unless you want to strip every bit of wax and dry out your rubber seals. Truck wash is too caustic for long-term use on gelcoat.
Two 15L Buckets with Grit Guards — One for your soapy water, one for rinsing your brush/mitt. If you don't use a grit guard, you're just rubbing outback sand back into the paint. Simple as that.
Red Dirt Remover — CT18 is the industry standard for a reason, but use it sparingly and don't let it dry. It's great for the chassis and wheel arches but be careful on the shiny bits.
Microfiber Wash Mitt — For the areas you can reach by hand. Brushes are okay for the roof, but for the sides, a mitt gives a much better finish without the swirl marks.
A Sturdy Ladder — Make sure it's rated for your weight and has non-slip feet. Falling off a ladder while holding a wet brush is a one-way ticket to a bad arvo.
Non-Acidic Wheel Cleaner — P&S Brake Off or Autoglym Mag Wheel Cleaner. Caravan wheels get filthy, especially if you've got electric brakes that shed a lot of dust.
Rubber & Trim Protectant — Something like 303 Aerospace Protectant. This is the holy grail for preventing your window seals from cracking in the 40-degree heat.
Large Drying Towel — A big 'twisted loop' microfiber towel. If you let a caravan air dry in the Aussie sun, you'll get water spots that are a nightmare to remove.
Clay Bar or Clay Mitt — For removing that 'sandpaper' feel on the front nose cone. You'll be amazed at how much smooth paint improves your fuel economy (slightly) and looks.
Leaf Blower — The best tool for getting water out of awning arms, window tracks, and behind the fridge vents. (The missus will think you're mad, but it works).
Sealant or Wax — I prefer a ceramic spray sealant like Gtechniq Easy Coat or Bowden's Bead Machine. It lasts longer than wax in our heat.
03

Preparation: Don't Just Start Spraying

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Check Your Seals

Before you get the hose out, walk around and check all your silicone seals around the roof, windows, and hatches. If you see a gap, don't spray water directly at it or you'll end up with a mold problem inside your walls.

02

Close Everything Tight

Double-check the roof hatches, windows, and that pesky little door for the outdoor shower. I once left a side vent cracked on a customer's camper and spent an hour drying out their bunk beds. Never again.

03

Disconnect Power

Unplug the 240v lead. It's common sense, but you'd be surprised how many people forget. Water and electricity don't mix, even if you reckon you're being careful.

04

Park in the Shade (If Possible)

Trying to wash a 20-foot van in direct 2pm sun is a losing battle. The soap dries instantly and leaves streaks. If you haven't got a big shed, start early in the morning or late in the arvo.

05

Pre-Rinse the Big Stuff

Use a gentle hose pressure to knock off the loose chunks of mud and dust. Don't go straight in with the brush yet, or you're just sandpapering the paint.

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04

The Step-by-Step Deep Clean

Tap each step to mark complete
01

The Roof First (Always)

Start at the top. If you do the sides first, all the filth from the roof will just run down and ruin your work. Use your telescopic brush and a bucket of soapy water. Be careful around solar panels-don't use harsh chemicals on them, just plenty of water.

02

Cleaning Solar Panels

Dust and bird poo can drop your solar efficiency by 30%. Use a soft cloth and just water or a very mild soap. Rinse them thoroughly so there's no film left.

03

The Nose Cone

This is where the bugs live. If they're baked on, lay a wet towel over the front for 10 minutes to soften them up before scrubbing. It saves your elbow grease and your paint.

04

Sectional Washing

Wash one side at a time, working from top to bottom. Divide a long van into three sections. Soap it, scrub it, rinse it before it dries.

05

The Awning Fabric

Roll out the awning. Spray it with a mild soap solution. If there's mold, use a specific awning cleaner (don't use bleach, it rots the stitching). Scrub gently with a soft brush, rinse both sides, and let it dry completely before rolling it back up.

06

Window Care

Most caravan windows are acrylic (plastic), not glass. They scratch if you even look at them funny. Use a clean microfiber mitt and never use Windex or anything with ammonia, as it'll cloud the plastic over time.

07

The Chassis and A-Frame

This is where the red dust hides. Use a stronger cleaner like CT18 here. Get underneath as much as you can, especially if you've been near the coast. Salt loves to hide in the box sections of the frame.

08

Wheels and Tyres

Clean the wheels with your dedicated cleaner. Use a stiff brush for the tyre sidewalls to get the brown 'blooming' off. It makes a huge difference to the overall look.

09

The Final Rinse

Go around the whole van with a 'sheeting' motion (no nozzle on the hose) to let the water run off in sheets. This makes drying much easier.

10

Drying

Use your big drying towel. Start with the windows so they don't spot, then work your way around the body. Chuck the leaf blower on to get water out of the door handles and fridge vents.

11

Sealant Application

Once dry, apply your spray sealant. This is the secret sauce. It fills the pores in the gelcoat and makes the next wash ten times easier. Just spray on a section and buff off with a fresh microfiber.

12

Treating the Seals

Apply your rubber protectant to every window and door seal. This keeps them 'plump' and prevents leaks. It’s the most skipped step, but honestly, the most important for the life of the van.

Watch Out

Never use a high-pressure washer close to the decals or the silicone seals. I've seen a 3000psi washer strip the stripes off a brand new camper in seconds. Keep the nozzle at least 50cm away. Also, avoid 'Wash and Wax' products that contain TFR (Traffic Film Remover) on caravans; they can yellow the plastics over time. And for heaven's sake, don't walk on the roof unless you're 100% sure it's a walk-on roof. Most aren't, and you'll go straight through the skylight or dent the aluminium.

Trade Secrets from the Field

If you've got stubborn black streaks coming down from the roof, don't reach for the abrasive polish. Use a bit of methylated spirits on a rag, or a dedicated 'Black Streak Remover'. It dissolves the oxidized runoff without thinning your paint. Also, if you've got a diesel heater, make sure you cover the exhaust pipe before washing so you don't get water in the unit. And here's one from my mate who does outback tours: spray a bit of silicone lubricant into your stabilizer legs after washing to keep the grit from grinding the gears.
05

Advanced Techniques: Machine Polishing Gelcoat

If your van has gone 'chalky' (you rub your hand on it and it comes off white), a simple wash won't fix it. That's oxidation. You'll need a dual-action (DA) polisher and a medium cutting compound. Gelcoat is much thicker and harder than car paint, so you can be a bit more aggressive, but you still need to be careful around edges and decals. I reckon a wool pad on a DA polisher is the best way to bring back the shine. Once you've polished it, you MUST apply a high-quality sealant immediately, or the oxidation will return within weeks because the 'pores' of the fiberglass are wide open.
06

Aftercare and Storage

After you've spent the whole day cleaning, don't just park it back under that gum tree. If you don't have a shed, a high-quality breathable cover is worth its weight in gold. Look for one with a high UV rating. If you're storing it outside in the Aussie sun without a cover, you really need to be re-applying a spray sealant every 3 months. Another thing: leave your fridge door propped open (use the 'storage' catch if it has one) and maybe chuck a moisture absorber (like DampRid) inside the cabin. This prevents that 'musty caravan smell' from developing while it's sitting. I always tell my customers to give the tyre sidewalls another wipe with protectant before they park it up for winter, as it stops the sun from 'checking' or cracking the rubber. A bit of maintenance now saves you thousands in repairs down the track.
07

What's in My Detailing Van?

I'm picky about what I use because time is money. For general washing, **Bowden's Own Nanolicious** is my go-to. It's Aussie-made and doesn't strip protection. For the red dirt on the chassis, **CT18 Superwash** is unbeatable, but I never let it touch the paint for more than 2 minutes. For protection, **Gtechniq C2 Liquid Crystal** is brilliant for caravans because it's so fast to apply over such a large surface area. If you've got a camper trailer with a lot of canvas, **303 Fabric Guard** is the only thing I trust to keep the water-beading like new. Don't bother with cheap 'export' brands from the servo; they're mostly water and won't stand up to a week in the Simpson.
08

Common Caravan Cleaning Questions

Can I use dish soap to wash my caravan?
Look, you can, but it's a bad idea. Dish soap is designed to strip grease, which means it also strips any wax or protective oils from your paint and seals. Use a proper pH-neutral car or RV wash.
How do I get red dust out of the flyscreens?
Don't scrub them or you'll stretch the mesh. Take them off if you can and use a soft brush with a vacuum, or blow them out with compressed air from the inside out.
Is it safe to pressure wash the fridge vents?
Absolutely not. You'll blast water into the gas burner and electronics. Hand-wipe the vents only.
How often should I wax my caravan?
In Australia? Every 6 months if it's stored outside. If you use a modern ceramic sealant, you might get 9-12 months out of it.
My decals are peeling, can I save them?
Once they start peeling at the edges, they're usually goner. You can trim the peeling bit with a sharp blade to stop it catching, but the best cure is prevention with a high-UV protectant.
How do I clean my water tanks?
That's an internal job, but since you asked: use a food-grade tank cleaner or a very weak bleach solution, flush it three times, and then fill with fresh water.
What's the best way to clean a stone guard?
Stone guards get hammered. Use a stiff brush and soapy water for the mesh. If it's the 'sticky' rubber type, a bit of tyre shine can make it look new again, but it'll attract dust faster next time.
Can I use a 'Magic Eraser' on the exterior?
Only as a last resort for scuffs. They are actually a very fine abrasive (like 3000 grit sandpaper) and will dull the finish if you use them everywhere.

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