What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, nobody actually enjoys working on their trailer. We'd all rather be out on the water catching a feed, but ignore your trailer and it'll bite you when you least expect it. This guide covers everything from tackling salt corrosion to checking your bearings before a long trip. Whether you've got a small tinnie trailer or a big dual-axle setup for a glass boat, these steps will keep things moving smoothly.
The Reality of Boat Trailer Care
What You'll Need in the Shed
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Getting Ready
Find a flat spot
Park the trailer on a flat concrete surface. If you're on a slope and the trailer rolls, you're in for a world of hurt. Chock the wheels on the opposite side you're working on.
The Deep Clean
Give the whole thing a massive wash down. I mean everything, inside the C-channel, the axle, the leaf springs. If there's salt hiding in there, it'll eat the metal while you're sleeping.
Visual Inspection
Walk around with a beer (optional, but recommended) and look for cracks in the welds, frayed winch cables, or rust bubbles under the paint/galvanising.
The Full Maintenance Run-Down
Jack it up and check the play
Jack up one side and grab the tyre at the top and bottom. Give it a good wiggle. If it moves more than a millimetre or two, your bearings need tightening or replacing. Spin the wheel, it should be silent. If it sounds like a bag of gravel, they're shot.
Service the Bearings
Pop the dust cap or Bearing Buddy off. If the grease looks milky, water has got in. You'll need to pull the hub, clean out the old grease with some kero or degreaser, and pack in fresh marine grease. Some people reckon you can just pump more in, but I reckon that just hides the problem.
Inspect the Tyres
Trailer tyres usually rot before they wear out. Look for 'sidewall cracking' caused by the Aussie UV. If you see little cracks, chuck 'em. I once saw a bloke's tyre delaminate on the highway because it was 10 years old even though it had heaps of tread. Check pressures too; usually 45-50 psi for light truck tyres on trailers.
Check the Brakes
If you've got mechanical override brakes, check the cable tension. If they're hydraulic, check the fluid level in the master cylinder on the drawbar. Use a bit of brake cleaner to get any salt or dust off the discs or drums.
Wiring and Lights
Plug it into the car and test everything. If a light is flickering, it's usually a dodgy ground or salt in the plug. Clean the terminals with a bit of sandpaper and spray some WD-40 or Inox into the plug to keep moisture out.
Winch and Strap
Pull the whole winch strap out. Look for frays or UV damage. If it looks 'hairy', it's weak. Wind it back on neatly under tension. Put a drop of oil on the winch gears while you're at it.
Leaf Springs
These are the first things to rust. Use a wire brush to get the loose scale off, then drench them in Lanotec. It'll smell like a wet sheep for a day or two, but it's the best protection against salt spray.
Coupling and Hitch
Grease the hitch ball and check that the coupling latches securely. Adjust the nut underneath if it's too loose on the ball.
Rollers and Skids
Make sure the rollers actually roll. If the split pins are rusted out, replace them with stainless steel ones. (Stay away from the cheap zinc ones at the hardware store, they won't last a month in salt).
Final Frame Check
Scan the frame for any brown streaks. If you find rust, sand it back to bright metal, hit it with Cold Gal, and then top coat it if you can be bothered.
Watch Out
The Lanolin Secret
After the Ramp
Common Trailer Questions
How often should I grease my bearings?
Are LED lights really waterproof?
My trailer is starting to show white spots, is that rust?
Can I use WD-40 on my wheel bearings?
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