What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, most blokes spend all their time polishing the boat and forget about the thing that actually carries it to the water. I've seen too many good trailers end up as heaps of rust because they didn't get a proper wash after a day on the bay. This guide is for everyone from the weekend tinnie owner to the blokes hauling big glass boats, covering how to stop salt, dust, and Aussie UV from killing your gear. I'll walk you through the proper way to flush, lube, and protect it so your missus isn't calling me for a tow when your axle gives up the ghost.
The Reality of Salt and Dust
What You'll Need in the Shed
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Getting Set Up
Find a Flat Spot
Park the trailer on a flat surface. If you can, do this on the grass if your salt wash is biodegradable, otherwise, the driveway is fine. Just make sure you've got room to crawl around.
Chock the Wheels
Safety first, mate. Chuck some bricks or proper chocks behind the tyres. You don't want the thing rolling while you're messing with the winch.
Unspool the Winch
Pull out about a metre or two of your winch strap or cable. Salt gets trapped in the layers of the strap and rots it from the inside out.
The Full Maintenance Routine
The Initial Blast
Get your pressure washer and give the whole frame a massive soak. Start from the front (the hitch) and work your way back. Pay special attention to the 'C' channel or box sections where mud and salt sit.
Apply Salt Neutraliser
Mix up your salt wash. I usually use a foam cannon if I'm feeling lazy, but a pump sprayer works too. Drench the leaf springs, the axles, and the inside of the wheels. Let it dwell for 5-10 minutes (don't let it dry in the sun though).
Scrub the Springs
Leaf springs are the first thing to fail. Use your wire brush to get between the leaves. If you see red dust coming out, that's rust eating the metal. Give it a good scrub.
Flush the Brakes
If you've got trailer brakes, they need a serious flush. Salt loves to hide in the calipers or drums. Use heaps of fresh water here. I once had a customer whose brakes seized solid halfway to Forster because he never flushed the drums (cost him a fortune in repairs).
Check the Bearings
Feel the hubs. If you've just come off the road, they should be warm, not hot. Pop the caps on your Bearing Buddies. If the grease looks milky, water has got in. You'll need to repack them. If not, just give them a couple of pumps of marine grease until the piston moves.
The Frame Inspection
Look for 'tea staining', that brownish discolouration on the galvanising. It's the first sign the zinc is giving up. If you find deep rust, you might need to sand it back and hit it with some cold gal spray.
Winch and Jockey Wheel
Grease the gears on the winch. I reckon people forget this until the handle snaps off in their hand. Also, wind your jockey wheel all the way up and down and hit the thread with some Lanolin.
Tyre Check
Trailer tyres usually rot from UV before they wear out from driving. Look for cracks in the sidewalls (the 'missus test', if she wouldn't feel safe, change them). Set them to the right pressure, usually 45-60 psi depending on the load.
Electrical Check
Plug it into the car and check your indicators and brake lights. Clean the plug pins with a bit of WD-40 or contact cleaner. If the lights are flickering, check the ground wire, it's usually just a loose screw on the frame.
The Lanolin Shield
This is my secret weapon. Once the trailer is dry, spray Lanotec over the leaf springs, the bolts, and any exposed metal. It smells like a wet sheep for a day, but it creates a barrier that salt can't penetrate. Don't get it on the brake discs though!
Expert Tip: The 'Finger Test' for Bearings
Watch Out
The Truth About 'Maintenance Free' Hubs
Watch Out
Storing It Right
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I actually grease my bearings?
Can I use WD-40 on my leaf springs?
My trailer is vibrating on the highway, what's up?
Should I paint my galvanised trailer?
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