What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, most blokes spend all their time polishing the bonnet but completely forget what's happening underneath. Between the salt spray if you're living near the coast and the red dust that gets into every crevice out west, your chassis is copping a beating. This guide is all about getting under there, getting it clean, and applying some proper protection so your 4x4 or daily driver doesn't turn into a rust bucket in five years.
Why Bother with the Bits You Can't See?
What You'll Need in the Driveway
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Setting the Scene
The Deep Clean
Give the whole underbody a massive blast with water. If you've been in the red dirt, you'll be there for a while. Keep going until the water runs clear. I usually do this the day before I plan to seal it so it has time to dry properly.
Safe Lifting
Jack the car up and set it securely on axle stands. You need enough clearance to move around. If you're lucky enough to have a 4x4 with a lift kit, you might be able to skip the jacking, but it's always easier with more room.
De-grease and Scrub
Spray your degreaser liberally over the greasy bits (avoiding the exhaust). Give it 10 minutes to dwell, then hit it with the pressure washer again.
The Sealing Process
Inspect for Rust
Get a torch and look for any orange spots. If it's just surface rust, hit it with the wire brush until you see shiny metal. If it's flaky and deep, you've got bigger problems that a spray can won't fix.
Touch up Bare Metal
If you've scrubbed back to bare metal, hit it with a zinc-rich cold galvanising spray or a rust convertor. Don't just spray lanolin over raw, bleeding rust.
Masking (Optional but Recommended)
Chuck some old newspaper or masking tape over your brake rotors and the exhaust system. You don't want lanolin on your brakes (obviously) and it smells like a burning sheep if it gets on a hot exhaust.
The Chassis Rails
This is the most important bit. Stick the nozzle of your spray (Lanotec is my preference) into the holes in the chassis rails and give it a good squirt while pulling it out. You want the inside coated.
Coat the Suspension Components
Spray the control arms, leaf springs, and coil towers. These areas take the brunt of the road grime.
Don't Forget the Diff
Give the diff housings a decent coating. Avoid spraying the breather valves though, they need to breathe!
Floor Pan Protection
Spray a light, even coat across the floor pans. You don't need it dripping wet, just a consistent film.
Check Your Work
Use a torch to make sure you haven't missed any spots. The lanolin will look slightly wet/glossy.
Wipe the Excess
If you've got big drips, wipe them off with a rag. You want a film, not a puddle.
Lower the Vehicle
Carefully remove the stands and lower the car. Give it a minute to settle.
The 'Driveway Save'
Move the car off the cardboard immediately. If you spilled any on the concrete, hit it with some heavy-duty degreaser and a stiff broom before it sets.
The Curing Process
Let the car sit for at least a few hours, ideally overnight. If you go driving down a dusty track immediately, the dust will stick to the wet lanolin and make a thick paste (which actually isn't the worst thing for protection, but it looks terrible).
Watch Out
The 'Sand Sandwich' Trick
Warm the Can
Maintaining the Shield
Common Questions from the Shed
Can I just use WD-40?
Will this ruin my rubber bushings?
What if I already have a bit of rust?
How do I get the red dust out first?
Wrapping Up
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