What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, we've all been there. You come back from a weekend up the coast or out in the bush and your rig is absolutely caked. Whether it's that sticky river mud or the fine red dust that gets into every crevice, you can't just go at it with a sponge and some dish soap. This guide is for the blokes and ladies who actually use their cars but want to keep the paint looking decent for more than six months.
The Reality of Aussie Dirt
The Gear You'll Actually Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Before You Start Spraying
Find the Shade
Never, ever wash a mud-caked car in the direct 2pm sun. If it's 35 degrees out, the water and soap will dry instantly, leaving nasty water spots and chemical etching. Wait for the arvo or do it under a carport.
Dry De-dusting
If it's just dry red dust, sometimes a quick blast of compressed air around the window seals and mirrors helps before you get it wet and turn it into mud.
Check Your Seals
Make sure your windows are up tight and your air intake (snorkel or otherwise) is secure. You'd be surprised how many people blast water straight into their cabin or intake when they're distracted by a big clump of mud.
The Step-by-Step De-Muddification
The Heavy Underbody Blast
Start from the bottom. Use your pressure washer to get into the wheel arches and the chassis. If you've been on the beach, this is where you spend 20 minutes. Don't stop until the water running out is clear. I once spent 45 minutes on a Patrol that had been to Fraser Island, the amount of sand that came out of the chassis was enough to fill a bucket.
The Pre-Rinse (High Volume, Low Pressure)
Don't go full blast on the paint yet. Use the hose or a wide fan setting on the pressure washer to just soak the mud. You want to hydrate it so it softens up. Let it sit for 5 minutes, keeping it wet.
Apply the 'Chemical Blanket'
Chuck some snow foam in your cannon. If it's really filthy, I'll mix a bit of CT18 in with the foam. Coat the whole car from the bottom up. Let it dwell for 5-8 minutes, but don't let it dry. This pulls the grit away from the surface.
The First Pressure Rinse
Now use the pressure washer to blast the foam and softened mud off. Start from the roof and work down. Keep the nozzle about 30cm away from the paint, you aren't trying to strip the paint off, just the dirt.
The Two-Bucket Method
Now that the heavy grit is gone, it's safe to touch. Fill one bucket with soapy water and one with plain water. Dunk your mitt in the soap, wash a panel, then rinse the mitt in the plain water bucket before going back for more soap. This stops you from rubbing the dirt you just took off back onto the next panel.
Detail the Nooks
Take your soft brush and go around the window rubbers, the grille, and the petrol cap. Red dust loves to hide here. If you miss it, it'll run down your clean car the next time it rains.
Final Rinse
Give it one more thorough rinse. I like to take the nozzle off the hose for this and just let the water 'sheet' off the car. It helps with the drying.
Drying
Use your big microfiber towel. Don't rub, just lay it flat over the bonnet and pull it towards you. In our heat, if you leave it to 'air dry', you'll get calcium spots that are a nightmare to get off later.
Door Jams and Seals
Open all the doors. I guarantee there's mud or dust in there. Wipe them out with a damp, old microfiber (not your good one!).
Pro Tip: The Cooking Spray Trick
Watch Out
Protecting the Finish
Common Mud Questions
How do I get the red stain out of my white paint?
Is CT18 bad for my paint?
What about the mud stuck in the radiator?
Can I just go to a brushless car wash?
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