What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, most blokes reckon a quick squirt with the hose is enough for the wheels, but they're wrong. Between the red dust from outback trips and that nasty salt spray if you live near the coast, your wheels take a beating. This guide covers the proper way to deep clean your rims and protect your tyres without spending a fortune at the local car wash.
Why Bother with Wheels?
The Essential Kit
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Preparation is Key
Park in the shade
Never, ever wash wheels that are hot to the touch. If you've just come back from a spirited drive or the car has been sitting in the 2pm sun, give it an hour to cool down. Chemicals drying on hot rims is a recipe for disaster.
Set up your station
Get your bucket ready with a bit of car soap and toss your brushes in. Having everything in reach makes the job way less of a chore.
Dry-pull the heavy stuff
If you've just come back from the bush and the wheels are caked in mud, give them a dry blast with the hose first. No point wasting chemicals on 2kg of dirt.
The Full Detail Method
Apply the Iron Remover
Spray your iron remover onto the dry wheel. Why dry? Because water dilutes the product. Let it sit for 2-3 minutes. You'll see it start to turn purple, that's the chemical reacting with the brake dust. It smells like rotten eggs, so try not to breathe it in too much.
Scrub the Tyres First
While the wheel cleaner is doing its thing, spray some APC on the tyre sidewall. Give it a good go with your stiff brush. You'll see brown suds coming off, that's 'blooming', where the antiozonants in the rubber move to the surface. Keep scrubbing until the suds are white.
Clean the Barrels
Slide your long-reach brush behind the spokes. Most people just clean the face, but the barrels are where the real grime lives. I've seen wheels look great from the front but absolutely filthy once you look closer.
Tackle the Spokes and Face
Use your soft brush to gently agitate the face of the wheel. Don't press too hard; let the chemical do the heavy lifting.
Detail the Lug Nuts
Grab your small detailing brush and get into the lug nut holes. This is where the red dust loves to hide. If you don't get it out now, it'll just run out later and ruin your finish.
Rinse Thoroughly
Blast every nook and cranny. Make sure you get the calipers and the back of the wheel too. You don't want any of those chemicals sitting there.
The Wheel Well
While you're there, give the plastic inner guard a scrub with your APC and a brush. It makes a world of difference to the overall look.
Dry Everything
Use a dedicated microfibre towel (not your good one for the paint!) or a leaf blower to dry the wheel and tyre. If the tyre isn't dry, the dressing won't stick.
Apply Tyre Dressing
Chuck a bit of dressing on your applicator and wipe it evenly around the sidewall. Avoid getting it on the tread, that's a safety hazard, especially on motorbikes (but don't do that on a car either, it's just pointless).
Wipe the Excess
After 5 minutes, give the tyre a light wipe with a clean cloth. This prevents 'sling' where the dressing flicks onto your doors once you start driving. I once did a white Prado and forgot this step, the missus wasn't happy when she saw the black spots all down the side.
Watch Out
The 'Dry' Trick
Keeping the Shine
Common Questions
Can I use dish soap on my wheels?
Why do my tyres turn brown?
How often should I clean my wheels?
Is tyre shine bad for the rubber?
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