What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, we've all been there. You spend two hours washing the car only to realise the front wheels still look like they've been dragged through a coal mine. This guide is for anyone sick of scrubbing until their arms ache, only to see that orange-brown tint remain. I'm going to show you the exact process I use in my detailing business to get wheels back to showroom nick without using nasty acids that'll peel your clear coat off.
The Lowdown on Brake Dust
What You'll Need in Your Kit
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Preparation is Key
Work in the shade
Never, ever wash your wheels when they're hot to the touch or in direct midday sun. The chemicals will dry too fast and leave streaks that are a massive pain to remove. If you've just come off the highway, give them 20 minutes to cool down.
Set up your bucket
Fill a bucket with water and a bit of car soap. This is just to lubricate your brushes. I usually chuck my brushes in the bucket to soak for a minute before I start.
Pre-rinse
Give the wheels and tyres a good blast with water to knock off the loose grit. This stops you from dragging rocks across the finish when you start scrubbing.
The Step-by-Step Clean
Dry-ish application
Spray your wheel cleaner onto the wheel while it's damp but not soaking wet. You want the product to cling to the surface, not just run off onto the driveway.
Let it 'Bleed'
Wait about 2-3 minutes. If you're using a good iron remover, you'll see it turn purple or red. This is the chemical reaction actually dissolving the iron particles. It smells like rotten eggs, but that means it's working! (The missus always complains when I do this in the driveway because of the stench).
Clean the tyres first
While the cleaner is dwelling on the rims, grab a stiff brush and some All-Purpose Cleaner (APC) and scrub the tyre sidewalls. You'll see brown 'blooming' come off. This is old silicone and dirt. Rinse just the tyre.
Agitate the barrels
Take your long barrel brush and get deep inside the wheel. This is where most of the dust hides. Don't be shy, give it a proper go.
Face and spokes
Use your soft wash mitt or a dedicated wheel brush to clean the faces. Work from the top down so you're not dripping dirty water on clean spots.
The fiddly bits
Use your small detailing brush to get into the lug nut holes and around the valve stem. A customer once brought in a Range Rover with 'clean' wheels that still had rings of dust around every bolt. It's the small details that make the difference.
Final Rinse
Blast everything thoroughly. Make sure you rinse the brake calipers and the rotors too. You don't want any chemical residue sitting on your brake pads.
Check your work
If you still see little black specs that won't come off, don't keep scrubbing and scratch the paint. You might need a clay bar or a stronger tar remover for those.
Dry the wheels
Use a microfibre towel to dry them. If you let them air dry in the Aussie sun, you'll get nasty water spots from the minerals in our tap water.
Watch Out
My Go-To Trick for Red Dust
Watch Out
Keeping Them Clean Longer
Old Socks are Gold
Common Questions
Will iron remover damage my driveway?
Can I use dish soap on my wheels?
How often should I do a deep clean like this?
Why do my brakes squeal after I wash the wheels?
Is it safe for matte black wheels?
Final Word
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