How to Detail Your Motorbike Properly

Never, ever wash a hot bike. I've seen guys pull into a servo and start hosing down a steaming engine. You'll risk cracking the block or spotting the chrome so badly it'll never come off. Give it at least an hour.

Chuck a plastic bag over the air intake and the exhaust outlet. Use some painter's tape to cover the ignition barrel and any USB ports. It's better to be safe than sorry.

Get your buckets ready and make sure you're in the shade. Attempting this in the direct Aussie sun is a recipe for water spots and frustration.

Give the whole bike a gentle spray with the hose. We aren't trying to blast dirt off yet, just loosen it. If you've got a foam cannon, use it here. It's the best way to safely lift that abrasive red dust before you touch the paint.

Start from the bottom up. Apply your degreaser to the chain and back wheel. I find an old soft-bristled toothbrush works wonders for the sprocket. Let it dwell for 5 minutes, but don't let it dry.

Clean the wheels before the rest of the bike. Why? Because the wheels are the filthiest part. Use a separate mitt or brush for this. If you use your paint mitt on the wheels, you're going to pick up brake dust that'll swirl your tank to hell.

Start at the top (mirrors, windscreen, tank) and work down. Use very light pressure. If you hit a stubborn bug splat, don't scrub it. Let the soap dwell on it for a bit. (Hot tip: a damp microfibre towel left sitting over bug guts for 10 minutes will soften them right up).

Use your soft brushes to get into the engine fins, around the radiator, and behind the suspension. This is where the salt and dust love to hide. If you live near the coast, pay extra attention to the underside of the frame.

Rinse from the top down. Be careful around the dash and the intake. I personally never use a high-pressure washer on my own bike, a normal garden hose with a decent nozzle is plenty. High pressure can force water past wheel bearings and electrical seals.

This is the most important part for bikes. Use a leaf blower if you have one. It blasts water out of the bolt heads and electrics. If you don't have one, use a plush microfibre and pat the surfaces dry. Don't drag the towel.

Once it's bone dry, apply your protection. For most blokes, a high-quality spray sealant like Bowden's Bead Machine or Gtechniq C2 is perfect. It adds a layer of UV protection which is vital in our climate. Apply to the tank, fairings, and any smooth plastics.

If you've got exposed aluminium or chrome, use a dedicated metal polish. I've found Autosol is still the king for headers, but go easy on 'black' chrome finishes as they're often just a thin coating.

Since you've just degreased and washed the chain, it's going to be dry. Apply your favourite chain lube while the chain is clean. I reckon the dry-style waxes are better if you're riding in dusty areas because they don't attract as much grit.