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Exterior Care beginner 7 min read

How to Clean Your Steering Wheel Properly (And Why Yours is Probably Filthy)

Most car owners make this harder than it needs to be. Here's the straightforward approach that actually works—no fluff, no upselling.

Think about everything you touch before grabbing the wheel, servo pumps, greasy burgers, or just sweat after a long day. This guide shows you how to strip away that nasty 'shiny' grease and get your wheel back to its factory matte finish.

B"W
Barry "Bazza" Williams Product Reviewer
| Updated: 7 March 2026
How to Clean Your Steering Wheel Properly (And Why Yours is Probably Filthy)

Aussie Conditions

Australian conditions are tougher than most—intense UV, red dust, coastal salt, and 40°C summers. European car care advice often doesn't cut it here.
Quick Summary

Look, I’m going to be honest with you, your steering wheel is likely the grossest part of your car. After 15 years in the trade, I’ve seen wheels so caked in skin oils and 'dead person' (gross, I know) that they look like they’ve been dipped in wax. This guide is for anyone who wants that fresh, matte feel back in their hands, whether you're dealing with a leather-wrapped daily or a plastic work truck. We'll cover the right gear and techniques for Aussie conditions, from coastal salt to that red dust that gets everywhere.

01

Why Your Wheel Feels Like a Deep Fryer

Most people reckon a 'clean' leather wheel is supposed to be shiny and smooth. To be honest, that’s a total myth. If your wheel is shiny, that’s actually a layer of body oils, sweat, and dirt that’s been baked on by the Aussie sun. I learned this the hard way years ago when I was starting out. I thought my own car was spotless until I hit it with a proper leather cleaner and realized the wheel was actually supposed to be matte grey, not glossy black! Especially now that it's March and we've just come off a brutal summer, that sweat and sunscreen have had plenty of time to soak in. If you’ve been doing any outback runs, you’ve probably got fine red dust acting like sandpaper every time you turn a corner. It’s time to get it sorted before the leather actually starts to crack and peel.
02

The Gear You Actually Need

What You'll Need

0/8
Dedicated Leather Cleaner — Get something like Bowden's Own 'Leather Love' or Gtechniq W5. Don't use dish soap, unless you want to ruin the hide.
Soft Boar's Hair Brush — This is non-negotiable for getting into the grain. A soft toothbrush works in a pinch for the stitching.
Microfibre Cloths (at least 3) — Use light-coloured ones so you can see the filth you're pulling off. It's oddly satisfying.
Interior Detailer (for plastic/vinyl) — If your wheel isn't leather, a good all-purpose cleaner (APC) diluted 10:1 is the way to go.
Leather Conditioner or Balm — Crucial for Autumn. The UV has been hammering your car all summer; the leather needs a drink.
Magic Eraser (ONLY for emergencies) — Most detailers hate these because they're abrasive, but sometimes on a 'hopeless' plastic wheel, they're a lifesaver. Use with caution.
Small Detail Brush — For the buttons and the gaps around the airbag cover.
Spray Bottle with Water — Just for a final wipe down to make sure no product is left behind.
03

Getting Ready

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Park in the shade

Never, ever clean your interior in direct sunlight. If the leather is hot, the cleaner will flash (dry out) before it can actually lift the dirt. Plus, you’ll end up with streaks that are a nightmare to get off.

02

Vacuum the column

Chuck the vacuum over the steering column and behind the wheel first. There's no point cleaning the wheel if you're just going to kick up dust from the dash onto your wet surface.

03

Test a small spot

Always test your cleaner on the back of the wheel first. I once had a customer bring in an old Jag where the dye just wiped right off because a previous 'pro' had used the wrong chemicals. Better safe than sorry.

04

The Step-by-Step Clean

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Apply cleaner to the brush

Don't spray the cleaner directly onto the wheel. If you do, it'll fly everywhere, into the instrument cluster, down the stalks, and onto your pants. Spray a bit onto your soft brush instead.

02

Work in small sections

I usually split the wheel into four sections (like a clock: 12 to 3, 3 to 6, etc.). Start at the top where the sun hits it hardest.

03

Agitate gently in circles

You aren't scrubbing a barbecue plate here. Let the bristles and the chemical do the work. You'll see the foam go from white to a nasty grey or brown. That's the good stuff (well, the bad stuff leaving).

04

Focus on the stitching

This is where the real grime lives. Use the brush to really get into those threads. If the stitching is white or red and looks black, it's just dirt. Spend an extra minute here.

05

Wipe away the slurry

Use a clean microfibre to wipe away the foam before it dries. Use a 'roll and lift' motion rather than just pushing it around.

06

Check your work

Once it dries (which should be fast), the leather should look 'flat' or matte. If there are still shiny patches, that's remaining grease. Give it another go.

07

Clean the buttons

Use a slightly damp (not wet) microfibre for the steering wheel controls. Don't get liquid inside the switches unless you want a very expensive trip to the sparky.

08

The rear of the wheel

Don't forget the back of the rim and the paddle shifters if you've got 'em. Your fingers spend a lot of time back there.

09

Final damp wipe

Take a separate cloth with just a tiny bit of water and wipe everything down. This removes any leftover surfactants from the cleaner.

10

Apply protection

If it's leather, apply a tiny amount of leather conditioner. Look, I wouldn't bother with the cheap greasy stuff from the servo. Use something that dries touch-dry so your hands don't slip.

Watch Out

Avoid using anything containing silicone or 'gloss enhancers' on your steering wheel. I remember a mate of mine used a cheap 'tyre shine' style interior spray on his Hilux wheel once. First time he turned a corner, his hands slipped and he nearly ended up in a ditch. Keep it matte, keep it grippy. Safety first, always.

The 'Steam' Trick

If you've got a wheel that's really far gone, I'm talking years of neglect, a garment steamer is your best friend. Wrap a microfibre around the steam head and gently move it over the leather. The heat opens the pores and the cloth sucks the oil right out. Just don't overdo it, or you'll cook the glue underneath.
05

Keeping it Fresh

Now that you've got it clean, the trick is keeping it that way. In Australia, our sweat is pretty acidic, and when you combine that with 40-degree days, it literally eats the top coat of the leather. I reckon you should give the wheel a quick wipe with a damp microfibre once a week. It takes thirty seconds and stops the build-up from starting. Also, if you've been at the beach, wash your hands before driving. Saltwater is a killer for leather. If you've got a work ute and your hands are always covered in grease or red dirt, maybe consider a high-quality cover, but honestly, nothing beats the feel of a clean, bare wheel. (Your partner will thank you too, no one likes touching a sticky steering wheel.)
06

Common Questions

Can I use baby wipes on my steering wheel?
Look, people do it all the time, but I wouldn't. Baby wipes often have oils and scents that can actually break down the clear coat on the leather over time. Stick to a proper automotive cleaner.
My leather is peeling, can I clean it?
If it's already peeling, be very careful. Cleaning might actually make it worse by lifting more of the damaged 'skin'. At that point, you're looking at a trim repairer or a replacement.
How often should I deep clean the wheel?
I usually reckon every 3 months for a daily driver. If it's a weekend car that lives in a garage, once or twice a year is plenty.
What about Alcantara or Suede wheels?
That's a whole different ball game. Don't use leather cleaner on those! You need a specific Alcantara cleaner and a very soft brush to 'reset' the pile, otherwise, it'll go hard and crusty.

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