Getting the Red Dirt Out: Interior Dust Removal

Before you even touch a vacuum or a wet cloth, you need compressed air. I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore years ago, if you wipe red dust before blowing it out, you just turn it into mud and push it deeper. Use a compressor with a long nose blow gun to get into the vents, seat rails, and under the stitch lines. Open all the doors and let the wind carry it out. (Just make sure you're wearing a mask, you don't want those lungs looking like the Simpson Desert).

For carpets, a standard vacuum won't cut it. The dust gets trapped under the pile. I use an orbital sander (without the sandpaper, obviously!) or a dedicated carpet drill brush. Run it over the carpet while the vacuum is right next to it. The vibration shakes the dust to the surface. It's honestly satisfying to see how much orange crud comes out even after you thought it was clean. My go-to for this is the Ryobi or Milwaukee cordless gear, no dramas with cables then.

Don't just use soapy water. Red dust is often acidic and oily. I reckon something like Bowden’s Own Orange Agent or a dedicated APC (All Purpose Cleaner) like Meguiar’s Citrus is the way to go. Spray it on a microfibre cloth, not directly on the dash. Direct spraying can lead to the liquid carrying dust into your buttons and shorting out the head unit. I've seen a mate fry his UHF doing that, expensive mistake.

Once the dust is gone, your plastics will look chalky and dry because that dust sucks the moisture right out of them. Don't use those greasy, shiny dressings from the servo, they just attract more dust next time you're on a dirt road. Use a matte-finish UV protectant like 303 Aerospace or Gtechniq C6. It leaves a dry-touch finish so the next layer of dust actually blows off rather than sticking.