Getting Rid of Sticky Tree Sap Without Ruining Your Paint

Never, ever try to remove sap in direct 2:00 PM Aussie sun. The chemicals will flash off too fast and might even stain your paint. Get under a carport or wait until the arvo when things cool down.

Give the whole car a proper wash. You need to get all that abrasive red dust and grit off first. If you start rubbing sap with dust on the paint, you're basically using sandpaper.

Dry the affected areas thoroughly. Water acts as a barrier for alcohol-based removers, so you want the sap to be bone dry before you apply the treatment.

Have a look at what you're dealing with. Is it a hard 'pimple' (pine) or a flat, sticky smear (gum)? Hard spots might need a soak, smears might just need a quick wipe.

If you're using a strong solvent, test it on an inconspicuous area first, like the inside of the door frame, to make sure it doesn't dull your specific clear coat.

Soak a small corner of your microfibre towel in 70% Isopropyl Alcohol. Don't drench the whole towel, just the bit you need.

Press the soaked cloth directly onto the sap spot. Hold it there for about 30-60 seconds. You want the alcohol to soften the resin. Don't rub yet!

After a minute, start to gently wiggle the cloth. I'm talking very light pressure. If it's working, you'll see the sap start to smear and break down.

Instead of scrubbing back and forth, try to 'roll' the sap off the paint using a fresh, clean part of the towel. This lifts the sap away rather than spreading it.

For sap on a door or fender, put a dollop of hand sanitiser on the spot. Because it's a gel, it won't run off. Let it sit for 2 minutes, then wipe clean. It works a treat on those vertical surfaces.

If it's a hard, old sap deposit, you might need a plastic razor blade. After soaking it with IPA, use the blade at a 45-degree angle to very gently shave the top off. Don't try to get to the paint, just the bulk of the sap.

Once the lump is gone, there's usually a sticky film left behind. Hit this with a fresh bit of IPA or a dedicated tar remover to get it perfectly clean.

After you've used any solvent, wipe the area down with a damp cloth or give it a quick spray with the hose to make sure no chemicals are left to dry on the paint.

Even if the spot looks clean, run your hand over it (inside a plastic baggie is a good trick, you'll feel every bump). If it feels gritty, use a clay bar with plenty of lube to pull out the remaining contaminants.

Now that the paint is bare, look at it under a torch. If you see a dull ring where the sap was, the acid has etched the paint. You'll need a light polish to fix this.

Use a quick detailer spray to clean up any clay lube or leftover streaks. This makes the surface ready for protection.

This is the most important step! Alcohol and solvents strip everything off the paint. Apply a fresh coat of wax or sealant. If you don't, the next bit of sap that lands there will bond even harder.