What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, we've all seen it, that crusty, yellow film that develops on modern plastic headlights after a few years under the Aussie sun. Our UV levels are absolutely brutal, and once that factory clear coat fails, your night vision goes right out the window. This guide covers how to wet-sand away the damage and, more importantly, how to seal it so you aren't doing the whole job again in three months time. This is for anyone from the weekend tinkerer to someone wanting to spruce up their daily driver before selling it.
Why Your Lights Look Like Garbage
The Gear You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Prep is Everything
Wash the car
Give the whole front end a good scrub. You don't want grit from the bumper getting under your sandpaper and gouging deep scratches into the lens.
Double-tape the edges
This is the most important prep step. Use two layers of masking tape around the headlight where it meets the paint. I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore, one slip with 800-grit paper and you're looking at a trip to the panel shop.
Decontaminate
If the car has been outback, use a soft brush to get the red dust out of the gaps around the light. That stuff is basically liquid sandpaper and will ruin your finish if it leaks out while you're working.
The Step-by-Step Restoration
Soak your paper
Chuck your sandpaper into a bucket of water for about 10 minutes before you start. It makes it more pliable and less likely to 'grab'.
The Scary Start (800 Grit)
Start with the 800-grit. Keep the light soaking wet with your spray bottle. Sand in horizontal lines only. The water will turn milky yellow, that's the dead plastic coming off. Keep going until the entire light has a uniform, frosty look and all the yellowing is gone.
Wipe and Inspect
Dry the light off. It'll look terrifyingly dull. Don't panic. You're looking for any spots you missed. If there's still a patch of 'clear' factory coating, keep sanding with the 800 until it's all gone.
Switching Directions (1500 Grit)
Now move to 1500-grit. This time, sand vertically. Why? Because when you see the horizontal scratches disappear, you know you've sanded deep enough with the 1500. Keep it wet!
Refining (2000 Grit)
Back to horizontal strokes with the 2000-grit. You'll notice the 'slurry' coming off the light is now white rather than yellow. The plastic should start feeling much smoother.
Final Sand (3000 Grit)
The 3000-grit is basically just a polish. Do this thoroughly in both directions. By the end of this, the light should actually look slightly translucent even when dry.
Compounding
Apply a few pea-sized drops of Meguiar's Ultimate Compound to a clean microfibre or a polishing pad. Work it in hard with circular motions. This is where the magic happens and the clarity returns. Wipe off the residue and check your work.
The Alcohol Wipe
Clean the lens thoroughly with rubbing alcohol. This removes any oils from the polish. If you skip this, your sealant won't stick, and you'll be doing this again in a month.
Apply Protection
Apply your UV sealant or ceramic coating. If using a wipe-on clear coat, do it in one smooth motion. Don't go back over it while it's drying or it'll streak. Most of these need to cure for 24 hours away from rain or dust.
Expert Tip: Watch the Heat
Watch Out
Keeping Them Clear
Common Questions
Can't I just use a 'restorer' cream from the servo?
Is it worth buying a new headlight instead?
My headlights are cloudy on the inside. What do I do?
Will this pass a Roadworthy/Pink Slip?
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