Comprehensive Wheel and Tyre Restoration and Protection Guide

Ensure wheels are cool to the touch. In Australian summer, this may require moving the car into a garage or under a carport for at least 2 hours. Spraying cold water or chemicals onto a hot brake rotor can cause 'warping' or thermal shock, potentially cracking ceramic components or causing chemicals to flash-dry and etch the finish.

Don nitrile gloves and safety eyewear. Many professional-grade wheel cleaners contain mercaptoacetate or alkaline degreasers that can cause skin irritation or chemical burns. Ensure you are working in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling the 'rotten egg' smell associated with iron-reactive chemicals.

If using concentrated degreasers for tyres, pre-mix them into spray bottles. For standard maintenance, a 1:5 ratio (1 part product to 5 parts water) is usually sufficient. Shake all products thoroughly as active ingredients often settle at the bottom during storage in high-heat environments.

Turn the steering wheel to full lock to allow better access to the inner wheel arches and the back of the tyre tread. This is particularly important for 4x4s that have accumulated mud or red dust in the suspension components which can drip down onto clean wheels during the process.

Rinse the wheels, tyres, and arches thoroughly with high-pressure water. Focus on removing loose grit, salt, and red dust. Start from the top of the arch and work down. This 'pre-wash' removes the heavy abrasive particles that could cause scratching during the contact agitation stage.

Apply your tyre degreaser liberally to the rubber while it is still wet. Let it dwell for 45-60 seconds. You will see a brown liquid (oxidised antiozonants and old dressings) begin to run off. Scrub vigorously with a stiff-bristled brush until the suds turn white. Rinse immediately.

Spray the pH-neutral wheel cleaner over the entire wheel surface, including the barrel, spokes, and lug nut recesses. Ensure even coverage. Do not let the product dry. In 40°C heat, you may need to work on one wheel at a time to ensure the surface stays wet.

Allow the cleaner to dwell for 2-3 minutes. If using an iron-reactive cleaner, the liquid will turn bright purple or red as it dissolves metallic brake dust. This chemical reaction is essential for removing 'hot' particles that have embedded themselves into the clear coat.

Insert the long-reach barrel brush into the wheel. Scrub the entire circumference of the inner barrel. This is where the majority of corrosive brake dust accumulates. Be careful not to flick the brush back at yourself, as the chemicals can be caustic.

Use a soft boar's hair brush to agitate the wheel face, spokes, and lug nut holes. Use a circular motion to create a lather. Pay close attention to the 'valleys' where the spoke meets the rim, as dirt often hides here. Ensure the brush is cleaned in a rinse bucket frequently.

If stubborn black spots remain after rinsing, these are likely tar or deeply embedded iron. Apply a dedicated tar remover to dry wheels for bitumen, or a second round of iron remover. Agitate with a dedicated microfibre cloth rather than a brush for more 'bite' on these specific areas.

Rinse the entire wheel, tyre, and brake assembly with a high volume of water. Ensure all purple residue is gone from the lug nut recesses and the brake callipers. Residual chemicals left on the callipers can cause permanent staining or affect the finish of the metal.

Dry the wheels using a dedicated microfibre towel or a car blower/compressed air. Removing all water is critical because 'water spotting' occurs rapidly in the Australian sun as minerals in the water (calcium/magnesium) bake onto the surface. Ensure the tyre sidewall is bone dry before applying dressing.

Apply a high-quality wheel sealant or Si02 spray to the wheel faces and barrels. This creates a hydrophobic barrier that prevents brake dust from bonding. For long-term protection in coastal areas, a dedicated ceramic coating is recommended to block salt-induced oxidation.

Apply a water-based tyre dressing using a foam applicator. Apply a thin, even coat. For a matte look, wipe off excess after 5 minutes. For a glossier finish, apply a second coat after 20 minutes. Ensure no product gets on the tread surface as this can reduce initial traction.

Check for 'high spots' or uneven streaks in the sealant. Use a clean microfibre to buff the wheel face one last time. Ensure no dressing has 'slung' onto the paintwork or the wheel arches. Your wheels should now feel slick to the touch and the tyres should look deep black, not greasy.