Comprehensive Caravan and Camper Maintenance Guide

Park the caravan in a shaded area or under a large carport. Never wash a caravan when the panels are hot to the touch, as chemicals will flash-dry, causing permanent etching. If working outdoors in summer, start at 6:00 AM to ensure the surface remains cool enough for chemical dwell time.

Close all windows and ensure the roof hatches are tightly sealed. Check the fridge vents and microwave exhaust for wasp nests or debris. Use painter's tape to cover sensitive electrical inlets (15A sockets) and external speakers to prevent water ingress during high-pressure rinsing.

Prepare your wash buckets using the 'Two-Bucket Method'. Fill one with 15L of water and 100ml of PH-neutral shampoo. Fill the second with clean water for rinsing your mitt. Prepare your snow foam cannon at a 1:9 ratio (100ml product to 900ml water) for optimal dwell time on vertical surfaces.

Use a low-pressure hose to remove loose leaves and organic matter from the roof and awning arms. Pay close attention to the 'gutters' above the door and windows where red dust tends to accumulate and harden into a mud-like consistency.

Start from the bottom. Spray an alkaline degreaser onto the chassis, suspension components, and the rear of the wheels. Let it dwell for 5 minutes (do not let dry). This breaks down the road tar and coastal salt film. Rinse thoroughly with a pressure washer, ensuring you reach the inner box sections of the frame.

Apply a thick layer of snow foam to the entire caravan, starting from the bottom and working up. This prevents 'clean streaks' from forming. Allow the foam to dwell for 5-8 minutes. The foam encapsulates abrasive red dust particles, lifting them away from the paint surface to prevent scratching during the contact wash.

Using your telescopic brush or a long-handle microfibre mop, wash the roof first. This is the dirtiest part and the source of most streaks. Work in 2x2 metre sections, rinsing the brush frequently in your rinse bucket. Moving from top to bottom ensures that dirt is washed down onto uncleaned areas rather than over clean ones.

Caravan windows are usually acrylic, not glass. They scratch extremely easily. Use a separate, brand-new microfibre mitt for windows only. Apply very light pressure and plenty of lubrication. Never use ammonia-based glass cleaners (like Windex) as they can cause the acrylic to go cloudy or 'craze' over time.

Fully extend the awning. If mould or mildew is present, mix a solution of 1 part white vinegar to 4 parts water. Scrub gently with a soft brush. For stubborn red dust stains on the underside, use a dedicated fabric cleaner. Rinse both sides and allow to dry completely in the sun before retracting.

Feel the front wind-deflector panel. If it feels rough like sandpaper, it has embedded industrial fallout or sap. Glide a synthetic clay mitt over the lubricated surface. You will hear a 'scratchy' sound that gradually disappears as the surface becomes glass-smooth. This is vital for the sealant to bond correctly.

In the Australian heat, water spots form in seconds. Use a dedicated large twisted-loop drying towel. Start with the windows to prevent spotting, then move to the side panels. Use a cordless leaf blower to blow water out of window tracks, door locks, and awning arms to prevent 'weeping' later.

Apply a marine-grade sealant using a foam applicator pad. Work in small sections (1m x 1m). This creates a sacrificial barrier against UV radiation. For gelcoat, use a circular motion; for aluminium siding, work with the grain of the metal. Buff off within 1-2 minutes using a clean microfibre towel.

Apply a UV-protectant (like 303 Aerospace) to all external rubber seals around windows, doors, and hatches. Wipe on and buff dry. This prevents the rubber from drying out and cracking, which is the primary cause of water leaks and expensive interior damage in older vans.

Apply a water-based tyre dressing to the sidewalls. Avoid petroleum-based 'shiny' dressings as they can accelerate rubber degradation in high UV environments. Check the torque of your wheel nuts after the cleaning process, as high-pressure water can occasionally disturb settled grit in the threads.