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Clear Vision: Summer Windscreen Prep and Coatings

Factory paint is thinner than ever. Without proper protection, Australian sun and salt will have your clear coat peeling within years.

Don't get blinded by the afternoon sun or stuck with baked-on bug guts. This checklist covers how to deep-clean your glass and apply a repellent that actually stands up to the Aussie heat.

B"W
Barry "Bazza" Williams Product Reviewer
| Updated: 26 February 2026
Clear Vision: Summer Windscreen Prep and Coatings

Aussie Conditions

Australian conditions are tougher than most—intense UV, red dust, coastal salt, and 40°C summers. European car care advice often doesn't cut it here.
Quick Summary

Look, with the sun hitting 40 degrees plus this February, your wipers are probably melting and your glass is a graveyard for Christmas beetles. I've spent 15 years cleaning windscreens and truth be told, most people forget the glass until they're driving into a sunset and can't see a thing. This guide is a quick checklist to get your glass crystal clear and coated so the rain (and the salt spray) just flies off.

01

Expert Take

I learned this the hard way when I took my old HiLux up the coast and the salt spray combined with the dust to create a literal crust on the glass. Standard Windex didn't touch it. If you're doing this in the peak of summer, you've gotta be smart about heat management or you'll just be chasing streaks all arvo. My go-to for years has been the Bowden's Own glass range, but for a heavy-duty coating that lasts a genuine six months, I usually reach for Gtechniq G1.
02

The Gear You'll Need

What You'll Need

0/8
Dedicated Glass Cleaner — Avoid ammonia-based ones if you've got aftermarket tint.
Clay Bar or Clay Mitt — Crucial for removing baked-on sap and red dust.
Glass Polish (Cerium Oxide based) — Autoglym Glass Polish is a cracker for deep cleaning.
Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) / Prep Spray — To strip oils before the coating goes on.
Rain Repellent/Coating — Glaco or Gtechniq are my top picks for the UV here.
4-5 Clean Microfibre Towels — Keep one 'waffle weave' specifically for the final buff.
Fine Grade Steel Wool (0000) — Only for the outside! Use it with glass cleaner for stubborn spots.
Applicator Pads — Microfibre or foam works fine.
03

Pre-Start Checklist

What You'll Need

0/4
Check Glass Temperature — If the glass is hot to the touch, move to the shade. Now.
Inspect for Chips — Don't apply pressure to a spider-web crack or it'll go 'pop'.
Lift the Wipers — Give the blades a wipe with a damp cloth while you're at it.
Check for Trim Sensitivity — Some glass polishes stain black plastics, tape 'em if you're messy.
04

The Method

Tap each step to mark complete
01

The Deep Wash

Scrub the glass with soapy water to get the loose grit off. If you've been outback, hose it thoroughly first to avoid scratching the glass with red dust.

02

Clay the Surface

Use a clay bar with plenty of lubricant. This pulls out the microscopic 'junk' like industrial fallout and bat droppings. You'll feel it go from gritty to smooth.

03

The Polish Phase

Apply glass polish with a firm hand. This removes water spots and old, failed coatings. Honestly, I wouldn't bother with a coating if you skip this, it won't bond.

04

The IPA Wipe

Spray your prep fluid or IPA and wipe it off with a fresh towel. This removes the polishing oils. The glass should look 'naked' and squeaky clean.

05

Apply Treatment

Apply your repellent in small overlapping circles. A customer once brought in a car where they'd just sprayed it on and left it, don't do that. Follow the cure times.

06

The Final Buff

Buff off the haze with a clean microfibre. If it's stubborn, a tiny sprinkle of water or glass cleaner on the cloth helps clear the streaks.

05

Final Inspection

What You'll Need

0/3
Sunlight Test — Check from the driver's seat at an angle to spot any high spots.
Wiper Blade Check — Ensure no polish residue is stuck on the rubber blades.
Cowls and Vents — Vacuum out any polish dust that fell into the air intakes.

Watch Out

Never apply glass coatings in direct midday sun; the solvents flash off too fast and leave permanent streaks. Also, keep the glass dry for at least 4-12 hours (check your product bottle) so the coating can cure properly, don't do this right before a summer thunderstorm.

A Final Tip from the Shop

If you find your wipers 'chattering' after a treatment, give the wiper blades themselves a clean with some rubbing alcohol. Most of the time it's not the coating, it's just gunk on the rubber. And yeah, that's pretty much it. Give it a crack this weekend!

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