What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, I've seen some shockers over the years, usually after a car has spent a decade baking in the Queensland sun or getting sandblasted by red dust out west. Most people think they need new assemblies, but 90% of the time, you just need to get stuck in with some wet-and-dry. This guide is for the weekend warrior who wants a clear road ahead without spending $800 at the dealership. I've kept it short so you can follow it while you're out in the shed.
The Gear You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Pre-Start Sanity Check
What You'll Need
The Process
Masking up
Double-tape the paintwork around the headlight. I once slipped with 800 grit on a black Commodore and had to polish the whole wing. Not fun.
Heavy sanding (800 grit)
Wet the paper and the lens. Sand horizontally until the yellow yuk is gone and the slurry turns white. Don't panic, it'll look blurry.
Refining (1500 grit)
Switch to vertical strokes this time. This helps you see when you've removed the scratches from the previous heavier grit. Keep it wet.
Finishing (2500 grit)
Go back to horizontal strokes. The lens should start looking slightly translucent now. It should feel smooth as glass to your fingertips.
Dry and Inspect
Wipe it bone dry. It should look like a uniform, white frost. If you see shiny spots, you haven't sanded enough in those areas.
Compound and Polish
Apply your compound to a microfibre or a drill pads. Work it in hard until the clarity pops back. This is the satisfying bit.
Prep for Protection
Wipe the lens down with IPA. You need a 'squeaky clean' surface so your UV sealant actually sticks to the plastic.
Seal the deal
Apply your UV protectant. I reckon Gtechniq C4 is great, but even a basic ceramic coating is better than nothing in our harsh sun.
Final Inspection Checklist
What You'll Need
Watch Out
Pro Tip
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