Ceramic Coating Maintenance and Decontamination Guide (Jan 2026)

Ensure the vehicle panels are cool to the touch (ideally below 30°C). In Australian summer conditions, this usually requires working before 9:00 AM or after 6:00 PM. Applying chemicals to a hot surface causes rapid evaporation, leading to chemical etching and permanent staining of the ceramic layer.

Set up in a fully shaded area with adequate drainage. If working outdoors, ensure you are upwind of any dust sources. Arrange your three-bucket system: Bucket A (Soap), Bucket B (Rinse water), and Bucket C (Wheel specific) to streamline the process and prevent drying.

Dilute your maintenance shampoo according to the manufacturer's specs (typically 1:500). Prepare your foam cannon with a 1:10 ratio of soap to water. Using excessive soap concentrations can leave a film that makes the coating appear 'dead' or non-hydrophobic.

Perform a thorough high-pressure rinse starting from the roof downwards. Focus on wheel arches and lower sills where salt and red dust accumulate. This removes 'loose' contamination that would otherwise be dragged across the paint during the contact wash.

Apply a thick layer of snow foam to the entire dry vehicle. Leave it to dwell for 4-6 minutes, but do not allow it to dry. This process encapsulates abrasive dirt and softens organic matter like bug splatter and bird droppings, allowing them to be rinsed away safely.

Rinse the foam thoroughly, paying close attention to window channels, door handles, and badges. Use the pressure washer to flush out hidden red dust reservoirs. By this stage, 90% of the surface dirt should be gone without any mechanical contact.

Using a high-quality microfibre wash mitt, wash the vehicle from top to bottom. Use the 'straight line' method (no circular motions) to prevent swirling. Rinse the mitt in the 'Rinse' bucket after every panel before reloading with soap from the 'Wash' bucket.

On a wet surface, spray an iron remover over the paintwork. Let it dwell for 2-3 minutes. You will see a purple reaction as it dissolves ferrous particles from brake dust and industrial fallout. This is critical for restoring the 'smoothness' of the ceramic coating.

If water spots are visible (common in regional areas with hard water), apply a dedicated water spot remover to a microfibre applicator and gently work it into the affected areas. Rinse immediately. This dissolves the calcium and magnesium that 'clogs' the coating's pores.

Perform a final, very thorough rinse of the entire vehicle. Ensure all chemical residues from the iron and water spot removers are flushed from gaps and crevices. Any leftover acidic or alkaline chemicals can degrade the coating over time if trapped.

Lay your large 1000GSM microfibre towel flat across a panel and 'pat' dry or gently pull it towards you. Do not scrub. For areas like mirrors and grilles, use a dedicated car blower or compressed air to remove trapped water that causes streaks.

Apply an SiO2-based maintenance spray (e.g., Gyeon Cure). Spray 2-3 mists per panel onto a fresh microfibre cloth, wipe on, and immediately buff off with a second dry cloth. This adds a sacrificial layer that takes the brunt of UV damage and restores extreme hydrophobicity.

Open all doors and wipe down the jambs. Use a water-based dressing on rubber seals to prevent them from drying out in the heat. This prevents 'sticking' seals and ensures a complete detail finish.

Clean exterior glass using a dedicated glass cleaner. Perform a final walk-around with a high-powered LED torch to check for high spots of the topper or any missed water streaks. The surface should be optically clear and extremely slick to the touch.