Autumn Paint Prep: Getting Your Ride Ready for the Cooling Temps

I learned this the hard way when I tried to wax a black Commodore that had been parked under a gum tree all summer. The wax just smeared the sap around and looked like a dog's breakfast. Before you put any protection on, you've gotta use a clay bar or a clay mitt. If you run your hand over the paint and it feels like sandpaper, that's embedded grit. Get a clay mitt and some lube (I'm a big fan of Bowden's Own Three Way) and get it smooth as glass first.

Honestly, I wouldn't bother with traditional waxes in the Aussie heat. They're great for show cars, but they melt off in about a week when the temp hits 35. For our conditions, you want a synthetic sealant or a ceramic spray. My go-to at the shop is Gtechniq C2, it’s dead easy to apply and shrugs off that coastal salt spray like nothing else. It’ll give you 4-6 months of legit protection while you're busy with footy season.

If you live near the coast or anywhere with fruit bats, you know their droppings are like battery acid. A customer once brought in a brand new Ranger with permanent etchings after just two days in the sun. Keep a bottle of quick detailer and a clean microfibre in your glovebox. If you see a hit, spray it immediately. Don't wait until the weekend or it'll eat right through your clear coat. (trust me on this one)

Most blokes forget the window seals and door rubbers. After a long, dry summer, they get brittle. Chuck some UV protectant on them, something like Aerospace 303. It stops them from cracking when the cold winter mornings start hitting. It takes two minutes and stops those annoying wind whistles on the highway.