Advanced Mechanical Decontamination: The Complete Clay Bar Guide

Perform a thorough two-bucket wash using a high-alkaline 'strip' soap to remove old waxes and surface grease. Ensure all loose dirt, red dust, and salt are rinsed away. In high-heat conditions, work in sections to prevent soap drying on the paint. Pay specific attention to wheel arches and door jambs where contaminants migrate from.

Spray an iron remover on dry paintwork. Let it dwell for 3-5 minutes (do not let it dry). The purple bleeding indicates the dissolution of iron particles. Rinse thoroughly. Apply tar remover to lower sills if bitumen is present. This step reduces the 'load' on the clay bar, minimizing the risk of scratching.

The panel must be cool to the touch (below 30°C). In an Australian summer, this usually means working inside a garage or very early in the morning. Attempting to clay a hot panel will cause the lubricant to flash off instantly, leading to the clay sticking and leaving stubborn resin streaks.

Divide your 100g clay bar into 3 or 4 smaller pieces. Knead the clay until it is soft and pliable. If the ambient temperature is low, place the clay in a bowl of warm water (approx 40°C) for a few minutes to increase its elasticity, which prevents it from crumbling during use.

Place your hand inside a thin plastic sandwich bag and lightly slide it over the clean, dry paint. The bag amplifies the sensation of bumps. If the surface feels like fine sandpaper, mechanical decontamination is required. Note the areas of highest concentration, usually the horizontal surfaces (bonnet, roof, boot).

Mist a 40cm x 40cm section of the panel generously with clay lubricant. Ensure the area is completely saturated. Never use a clay bar on a dry or lightly dampened surface, as this is the primary cause of 'clay marring' or dulling of the finish.

Flatten your kneaded clay into a disc roughly 5-7cm in diameter. Place it on the lubricated section. Apply almost zero downward pressure; your fingers should merely guide the clay across the surface. Let the abrasives in the clay do the work of shearing off the contaminants.

Move the clay in short, 15cm linear strokes (up-and-down or side-to-side). Do not use circular motions, as these can create swirl marks. You will initially feel and hear a 'scratchy' resistance as the clay encounters bonded grit and fallout.

Continue the linear strokes until the resistance disappears and the clay glides silently and smoothly. This change in tactile feedback indicates that the contaminants in that specific section have been successfully encapsulated into the clay.

After every 40cm x 40cm section, flip the clay over and inspect the surface. If you see brown (dust), black (iron/industrial fallout), or yellow (pollen/sap) streaks, the clay is working. If the face is heavily soiled, it's time to fold and reknead.

Fold the soiled face of the clay inward and knead it until a fresh, clean surface is exposed. This is critical to prevent dragging captured grit across the next section of paint. If the clay becomes too firm, a quick mist of lubricant on the clay itself can help.

Once a section is smooth, use a clean microfibre towel to wipe away the remaining lubricant. Inspect the area under a high-intensity LED light to ensure no clay residue (streaking) is left behind. If residue exists, re-mist with lubricant and wipe again.

You can use the same clay bar on exterior glass to remove water spots and sap. However, avoid textured plastic trim, as the clay will get lodged in the grain of the plastic, leaving white marks that are difficult to remove.

After the entire vehicle is completed, rinse it once more to remove any stray lubricant. Dry thoroughly. Finally, perform an IPA wipe-down (70% Isopropyl Alcohol) to strip any remaining oils, leaving the paint perfectly 'naked' and ready for protection.